Yamaha CS5

[Johnwebley]

Okay

Boiling away

The floats appear to leak,air bubbles coming from them,

As for the copy carb ,I was going to use it for spares,

And the body incase damage to the original,

I did buy a set for the CB200, they worked ok,



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[K2-K6]

"But, no rush, a little later I shall be making carb broth,"

Aha, the gourmand method  chuck a couple of eggs in to boil and save energy, is that Michelin Starred œufs ? 

Solder should be 180c melt, so safe in boiling water. But shows a compromised float though, and may need a re soldering before use.

[Johnwebley]

A couple of hours pottering in the garage,

Carb almost sorted, float pivot released

Only issue now is new gaskets, oh,and one of vents is still blocked,

Possible sonic cleaning will sort that,

Replaced the oil feed pipe without having to remove the clutch cover,

On PDI,the steering damper was wrongly assembled, also the throttle cable was routed wrongly, both sorted,

When the bike runs, the charging light stays on, it has a combined dynamo/starter,the starter works ok,it has been suggested I check the brushes, and also the regulator

So been working on that

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[Johnwebley]

Also derusted the gear lever,

Soaked the vinegar for a few days

Vast improvement

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[Johnwebley]

  the Chinese VM20 carb arrived,I odered it incase the original got damaged,

  it doesn't look to bad,obviously would need a mod for the choke,drill out an insert brass tube,

  I would be using the original jets and brass ware,

  useful safety net for £25 or so,

  I have had the original cleaned in a sonic bath,assembly to follow,
a few pics of the chinese carb,

 BTW,I notice they do replacement pertol tapes for the 500 etc,

[Oddjob]

Lol
Pertol tapes Jon? I presume you meant to say Petrol taps 😀😀

[Johnwebley]

Yup

My fingers are way behind my thoughts

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[Oddjob]

Gets to us all John. Old age sucks.

[Johnwebley]

I seem to have the carbs set up now, the RH was leaking, seems the original float bowl became porous from internal corrosion,

So the spare Chinese carb donated  a new spare,
Leaking solved

Short video to follow

Just got to sort the charging issue

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[Johnwebley]

Generator removed, brushes checked, made sure they moved and were long enough,

It's the very devil refitting the stator,

Retracting said brushes is tricky,

Basically no real improvement

The charging light dims,but doesn't go out

Anyone got any thoughts?




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[Skoti]

Gosh that's a beefy looking rotor for a wee bike.

Have you got any electrical test data for the stator, rectifier and voltage control unit?

Better to test rather than guess, a simple multimeter would probably suffice.

[Johnwebley]

Gosh that's a beefy looking rotor for a wee bike.

Have you got any electrical test data for the stator, rectifier and voltage control unit?

Better to test rather than guess, a simple multimeter would probably suffice.

It is a starter/dynamo,

I guess a similar system that Villiers used for the engines in the Bond cars

Possibly Isetta,BMW etc used the same for the bubble cars,

The Villiers had a switch, like golf carts, that would start the motor in reverse rotation, so no reverse gear needed

I have a multi meter, most of the readings seem to be somewhere near

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[K2-K6]

Perhaps some guidance in here John

Siba dynastart problems often stem from worn brushes, faulty control boxes, or weak batteries, resulting in poor cranking or failure to charge (indicated by a persistent red light). These units, common in microcars and small boats, are prone to dampness, corrosion, and overheating. Key solutions include rebuilding the unit, upgrading to a solid-state controller, and ensuring correct wiring, particularly using specific Siba coils to prevent burnout.Common Siba Dynastart Problems and SolutionsFailure to Charge:Control Box Failure: The mechanical control boxes are a frequent source of failure. Test if voltage exceeds 13V at the battery when running; if not, the control box or wiring is likely faulty.Worn Brushes: Third brushes can wear down, causing poor contact with the commutator.Overheating: If the unit gets extremely hot, a faulty controller may be causing over-charging, which can ruin field coils. Solid-state regulators are recommended as an upgrade.Poor or No Cranking:Weak Battery: Dynastarts need high power; check for a fully charged battery (approx. 12.6V).Corroded Terminals: Inspect wiring from the battery to the starter solenoid and motor.Solenoid Issues: If clicking occurs but it won't spin, the solenoid may be faulty.Ground Issues: Ensure a good ground between the engine block and the solenoid.Ignition Problems:Siba-Specific Coils: Using conventional car ignition coils can destroy the stator or control box. Siba systems require dedicated Siba coils.Condenser Failures: These can cause running issues.General Maintenance:Dampness: Units are sensitive to moisture.Overloading: A faulty relay can cause the unit to push too much power.Rebuilding: If the internal wiring is damaged, the unit may need to be rebuilt, often by a specialized auto-electrician.If the engine starts with a pull-starter, the issue is isolated to the Siba unit. If the unit makes a huge spark but doesn't turn, it could have an internal

A bit wordy, but may contain some relevant direction in which to look.

They were "Siba" dynastart in common use from my understanding, the neighbour at bottom of our garden when I was a kid was MD of the UK manufacturer and used to talk about them to my dad. Another neighbour had a few Issetta BMW cars too.

[Skoti]

Gosh that's a beefy looking rotor for a wee bike.

Have you got any electrical test data for the stator, rectifier and voltage control unit?

Better to test rather than guess, a simple multimeter would probably suffice.

It is a starter/dynamo,

I guess a similar system that Villiers used for the engines in the Bond cars

Possibly Isetta,BMW etc used the same for the bubble cars,

The Villiers had a switch, like golf carts, that would start the motor in reverse rotation, so no reverse gear needed

I have a multi meter, most of the readings seem to be somewhere near

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Back in the seventies I worked on a few later RD200 models with the coffin shaped tanks, but can't recall if I ever encountered charging system problems.
Wish I could suggest something to help you.

Be interesting to learn what the problem turns out to be tho.

Good luck.


Knew an old bloke that had a Bond Minicar years ago, it was also possible to kick start it but you had to clamber out of the car and step under the bonnet to do it. Very amusing to witness.



 

[Johnwebley]

Interesting morning

Thought I would see what the control box did,

According to manuals,the centre unit is a cut out,

The big one on the end is the starter solenoid,

Other voltage relay

So with the engine running at fast tickover, about 1700

I pressed the voltage relay switch, nothing happened,

Then the middle one

Charge light out,

But about 4 seconds later, the main/only fuse blew

Time to ponder again

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