SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400

To do or not to do?

<< < (3/6) > >>

K2-K6:
A quick reality check .... if you can jump it with leads off a car, then that would give overview of battery health. If it started that way, with the spray biting well, that could indicate a battery condition problem.

Sprags "like" and work better with a quick build of energy to make them bite, lethargic battery can be problematic if it just give a gentle shove.

Bryanj:
According to mr google about 20 miles and 35 minutes(mostly back roads!) I am about 2 miles from junction 12 of m5

Otis:

--- Quote from: Yetanotherbike on February 16, 2026, 04:54:01 PM ---Out of interest, when you say the starter clutch has gone, I assume you mean it sounds like the starter motor is whizzing over but the engine isn't. In my opinion there isn't very much to go wrong with the starter clutch it's only a sprag bearing. I wonder if the oil is the wrong grade IE too heavy and the rollers are slipping. Either way, why not enjoy the summer with the bike and worry about it next winter. They're not a particulary difficult engine to remove or rebuild and it also gives you a change to check the cam chain tensioner stirrup that often seizes.

--- End quote ---

Much appreciated proposal. Thank you

Otis:

--- Quote from: Bryanj on February 16, 2026, 05:39:45 PM ---I know its a long way but if you got the engine to gloucester for 8am on a saturday i am free you could probably take it home in the evening, that would be just changing the starter clutch with nothing else, trouble is you frequently find problems with cam change tensioner and that adds time plus if you havent got the necessary bits a wait for parts, pm me if you want to discuss it

--- End quote ---

Please forgive me for probably being naive but isn't the difficult part getting the engine out and back in? Once the engine is out it would seem to be a fairly straightforward job to rebuild the starter clutch?

Laverda Dave:
I would rather take an engine out of a frame then to do a starter clutch!
Getting the engine out (and back) on a 400/4 is pretty straightforward.
Remove the seat, side panels and tank together with the handlebars, rear brake pedal and footrest assembly, battery and the complete exhaust system (in fact anything sticking out of the right hand side but not the rear shock). Take off the chrome points cover because it will likely get dented and remove any wiring loom connectors to the engine (alternator, starter motor & points)
Remove the rear engine to frame bracket (it has the main earth lead attached to the through bolt) and the engine to frame bolt at the front of the engine on the r/h side and on the lower crankcase. Remove the sump pan and take off the oil pick up strainer (push on fit) and lay the bike over on its right hand side preferably onto something soft with a bit of give. Proceed to remove the front engine to frame brackets and the left side lower crankcase to frame bolt. You can then lift the frame off the engine that will remain on the floor.
Replacement in the words of Mr Haynes is a reversal of the removal procedure!
It sounds like a lot of work but in reality it isn't but I would recommend enlisting a helper when it comes to laying the bike down and lifting the frame away from the engine.
You can access the starter clutch from below if you take the sump and off side covers off and without removing the engine from the frame but it is very hard work trying to work below an engine even on a bike lift.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page