SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
Front Brake Disc - Torque Settings for Bolts
K2-K6:
The original bolts and flange nuts are fine, with no attendant risk as the design and tensile load specifically copes with this application.
Putting a flanged nut, with no washer is the anti-shake method chosen in place of using lock tabs.
They are held by the bolt being torqued correctly to keep it in tension competently.
You'd not want to swap them for stainless, without knowing details about both material specifications.
K2-K6:
These type application are usually assembled dry, just the zinc coating on the components and nothing else as part of their function.
Mikep328:
"They are held by the bolt being torqued correctly to keep it in tension competently.
You'd not want to swap them for stainless, without knowing details about both material specifications."
Yep...An item that is often ignored with fastener "upgrades," is the "self locking" function of properly torqued fittings. For example, if an OEM fitting uses a grade 2 bolt/nut and someone replaces it with a grade 8 bolt/nut because "it's better," the result will be a fastener that is very prone to loosening because the torque setting in the service manual to properly stretch that Grade 2 bolt will be far too low for the grade 8. ;)
Skoti:
--- Quote from: Mikep328 on April 22, 2026, 09:42:47 AM ---"They are held by the bolt being torqued correctly to keep it in tension competently.
You'd not want to swap them for stainless, without knowing details about both material specifications."
Yep...An item that is often ignored with fastener "upgrades," is the "self locking" function of properly torqued fittings. For example, if an OEM fitting uses a grade 2 bolt/nut and someone replaces it with a grade 8 bolt/nut because "it's better," the result will be a fastener that is very prone to loosening because the torque setting in the service manual to properly stretch that Grade 2 bolt will be far too low for the grade 8. ;)
--- End quote ---
Absolutely agree,
and the same applies to stainless fasteners especially on safety critical areas such as steering, suspension and brakes.
Had to remove some stainless engine mounting fasteners on my Norton and replace with OEM stuff as they were frequently needing retightened.
Been fine ever since.
Be sure, be safe.
element137:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on April 21, 2026, 11:22:36 PM ---Have they got the serrated flange Mick? If so loads available in stainless steel
--- End quote ---
The OEM nuts are smooth flanged - I did look at using some alternative Stainless Nuts - but they are shallower than the OEM nuts , i.e., the height above the flange to the top of the nut is much higher on OEM ,so less thread would be have been engaged so decided to clean up the OEM bolts and nuts and intend to re-use them - I was curious about the conflicting info about locking tabs or not , and I couldn't find the torque setting anywhere (until it was kindly posted in this thread ( many thanks for that ) -
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