SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
Front Brake Disc - Torque Settings for Bolts
element137:
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on April 22, 2026, 08:42:22 AM ---These type application are usually assembled dry, just the zinc coating on the components and nothing else as part of their function.
--- End quote ---
No thread lock ?
exvalvesetdabbler:
They would normally have been nipped up clean and dry. If you put thread lock or lube on them it will give you a greater pre load for the same torque setting. I normally knock 30 % of the torque to compensate if using thread lock or anti seize. Just my rule of thumb, others may have different ideas.
It's the torque and the friction of the flat flange face that keeps them done up.
Regards
Dave
K2-K6:
--- Quote from: element137 on April 22, 2026, 12:48:37 PM ---
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on April 22, 2026, 08:42:22 AM ---These type application are usually assembled dry, just the zinc coating on the components and nothing else as part of their function.
--- End quote ---
No thread lock ?
--- End quote ---
If the manual doesn't specify it, then not necessary to use.
In all practical sense, its not going to make much difference if used, but has the potential to give misreading on torque as it's more "lubricant" than dry only.
What's not immediately clear in design like this is that it effectively locks itself by the bolt threads by elongation under tensile load, but the nut threads are under compressive load when the flange touches and torque applied. The opposing change in thread pitch between the two making a "lock" nut from that action.
The flange effectively gripping the flat surface under tensile elasticity of the bolt prevents backing out too.
Oddjob:
That is a point Skoti. I’ve never found the hub carrier to get that hot, even when I was racing the 500, not hot enough to melt the insert anyway but fair point, maybe met locks would be a better choice.
Without the serrations gripping the disc you’re relying on just the torque keeping it in place, not a good idea imo, I’ve had one come out undone, lost the nut entirely. If the bolt had started to come out I could have been in serious trouble but luckily it stayed in place.
element137:
Thanks all for the very informative replies - I trust Honda's engineering ( even if in this case its 50 years old ) so will go with dry fit and correct torque - really appreciate all the input -
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