SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
Front brake squealing
TrickyMicky:
Surely once the initial clearance has been achieved, unless there is a problem, or pads have been renewed, it should not need adjusting. When releasing the brake lever, the seal on the piston reverts back to its normal shape giving the required distance betqeen pad and disc.
Oddjob:
The gap increases as the static pad wears Mick, so it must be checked every few thousand miles to keep it at max efficiency.
K2-K6:
--- Quote from: TrickyMicky on April 27, 2026, 03:48:44 PM ---Surely once the initial clearance has been achieved, unless there is a problem, or pads have been renewed, it should not need adjusting. When releasing the brake lever, the seal on the piston reverts back to its normal shape giving the required distance betqeen pad and disc.
--- End quote ---
As Ken notes, they only do half of the adjustment and need regular attention.
The "fixed" pad, once set to clearance by adjustment of the screw, then returns to that same reference by the little spring pressure on that bolt .... that's regardless of how much material is worn away from braking. Effectively you've got to chase that pad's wear with the adjustment.
The hydraulic piston and it's seal has to accommodate BOTH sides in it's return travel to work correctly (same as a single sided one piston caliper does) else the back pad can't get enough clearance when brake is released.
BUT, once the fixed pad gets too much clearance the spring return will then cause the hydraulic piston to drag as it let's the caliper swing too far on release. Also the lever travel gets longer too on brake application.
It's really a hybrid of mechanical and hydraulic and can't just be left alone like single piston floating caliper as many now use.
Skoti:
I've often wondered if the use of asbestos free organic brake pads is perhaps the cause of our brakes squealing nowadays.
Back in the 70's when I worked in the MC trade I can't particularly remember having problems with Honda brake pad squeal, but back then they were fitted with asbestos compound pads.
I do remember freeing off lots of seized caliper pivots during the winter months for customers that rode their bikes all year round.
A while back I did first try deglazing the pads as mentioned earlier in this thread and it does work but needs to be done regularly as the squeal just keeps coming back again and again.
For me and others the more expensive and grippy EBC FA013V semi sintered pads seems to mitigate this problem.
I've also got a stainless steel piston fitted, which I think is a worth while modification as it eliminates possible corrosion problems.
Mikep328:
I've had no squealing on my 400F in the 2+ years since I overhauled the front brake system. It didn't squeal before the overhaul either but it also didn't stop! :)
I did a thorough bedding in procedure - not sure if that helped to prevent squealing but it made a huge difference in braking power/feel. Also, the pads were factory beveled at the edges which may also help re squealing.
FWIW I tried five different pads/types when sorting out the brakes and, as I recall, all of them had factory beveled edges.
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