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Front brake squealing
Ken4004:
I have just repaired the damaged thread on the fork that the adjusting screw fits into and taken the glaze off the pads as suggested so hopefully will have time to go for a ride tomorrow and the bed the pads in again and keep my fingers crossed.
TrickyMicky:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on April 27, 2026, 04:06:01 PM ---The gap increases as the static pad wears Mick, so it must be checked every few thousand miles to keep it at max efficiency.
--- End quote ---
Both parts of the caliper are bolted rigidly together, so when pressure is applied the piston pushing on the pad forces the caliper to swing outwards until the static pad makes contact. When releasing the brake lever the piston seal returns from its distorted shape back to normal moving the piston back a fraction. If the static pad were to go further back it would pull the whole caliper with it, thereby making the moving pad come into contact with the disc again. I've never had a vehicle yet where the disc brakes needed adjusting once set up. The biggest problem with the brake on out Hondas is tightness of movement on the swinging spindle. The spigot needs gentle use with fine emery cloth and then given a dollop of coppaslip.
K2-K6:
--- Quote from: TrickyMicky on April 27, 2026, 06:53:26 PM ---
--- Quote from: Oddjob on April 27, 2026, 04:06:01 PM ---The gap increases as the static pad wears Mick, so it must be checked every few thousand miles to keep it at max efficiency.
--- End quote ---
Both parts of the caliper are bolted rigidly together, so when pressure is applied the piston pushing on the pad forces the caliper to swing outwards until the static pad makes contact. When releasing the brake lever the piston seal returns from its distorted shape back to normal moving the piston back a fraction. If the static pad were to go further back it would pull the whole caliper with it, thereby making the moving pad come into contact with the disc again. I've never had a vehicle yet where the disc brakes needed adjusting once set up. The biggest problem with the brake on out Hondas is tightness of movement on the swinging spindle. The spigot needs gentle use with fine emery cloth and then given a dollop of coppaslip.
--- End quote ---
Thats because this caliper design is unique (dont think anyone else used it at all) and definitely needs to have the adjustment manually applied to track the static pad wear. Then the screw has to be backed out again when new pads are used in replacement. It's just normal for this operation.
There's something similar in virtually all VW group car rear calipers, those having a mechanical operation of handbrake, concentric and inside the single hydraulic piston. That one ratchets itself in tracking the wear (unseen by driver) to keep pads correctly adjusted. This is facilitated by the operation of handbrake while footbrake is held down and clamping the disc, to allow ratchet mech most advantage in creeping with wear. They too need winding back out when pads are replaced.
Oddjob:
Can’t add much to Niges explanation tbh, you do seem to be missing the role the spring is doing here Mick. It pushes the arm back when the hydraulic pressure is released. So the pad wearing means the gap continuously increases.
TrickyMicky:
My final attempt, theoretical example, if the hydraulic piston had to move 1/2 inch before the pads make contact, due to the nature of the seal, when pressure is released the seal returns to its normal shape by retracting just a few thou. It does not travel all the way back inside the chamber, therefore, if the static pad tries to spring outwards it will pull the other pad into contact with the disc leading to binding.
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