Un reliable indicator switch

[Ken4004]

Hi everyone, just wondered if anybody had ever modified the internal switch gear for the indicators on the cb 400 f

I stripped the switch down during the rebuild and cleaned up the contacts and added lubrication but initially the switch worked OK but during use I then needed to move it with a little more force to the end of its slot to get the indicators to work.

I may have put too much lube on the switch or the wrong type or it’s just a bit of a naff design.

Nothing appears to be broken inside and it slides back and forth easily but the small copper U shaped slider that moves between the terminals isn’t making consistent contact with the terminals.

I don’t want to change the whole switch assembly just the internal so my question is has anyone done this ?

[Ken4004]

Very odd, just tried the indicators this morning without touching them and both left and right work perfectly so maybe a heat issue but I can’t think why this would be with just a six degree difference.

I did go out yesterday and it was 35 degrees now around 28 - 30 degrees .

Probably take it apart this morning give it a clean up and add fresh grease see what happens, it seemed a couple of months ago to work easily left indicator and not the right unless you pushed the switch hard over so took the switch apart and turned the brass slider upside down and it made it easier on the right and you had to push it harder on the left , all very odd !

[Ken4004]

Just come back from a 20 mile ride and it’s still working OK which again is odd, will keep an eye on it but would be interesting to hear if anyone else had had this issue

[ST1100]

I may have put too much lube on the switch or the wrong type or it’s just a bit of a naff design.

Some lubricants/grease might behave dielectric...
I use silicone grease where plastic moves on plastic, marine grease for metal on metal/plastic, and wipe contact patches with a Q-tip soaked in a drop ACF-50...

[Ken4004]

I may have put too much lube on the switch or the wrong type or it’s just a bit of a naff design.

Some lubricants/grease might behave dielectric...
I use silicone grease where plastic moves on plastic, marine grease for metal on metal/plastic, and wipe contact patches with a Q-tip soaked in a drop ACF-50...

Currently using silicone grease on everything so will clean it all up and try the ACF 50 on the contact patches, been out for a brief ride this morning and all is working normally which as I say a bit strange but it’s just too hot with the leathers on.
I am not a great fan of jeans on a motor bike just feel a bit unprotected so I am a bit old school in that respect.

[TrickyMicky]

I Must own up and admit that after nearly 50 years of wearing leather jeans, I now use denim jeans, kevlar lined, and fitted with hip and knee armour.  Very comfortable.

[Oddjob]

The contact plate IIRC are like small U shaped pieces of copper. About 10mm in length. They are easily distorted and end up with one leg of the U longer than the other. This can cause it to jam every now and then and sometimes not make the contact you want so the indicators don't work.

I use a Dremel and the finest of my radial abrasive discs to clean all the copper contacts, the white disc is fine for this as it's around 2000 grit, like a pumice stone actually. The contacts shine like new after just a few secs. Never had a problem with them not working after. The white disc is so fine it doesn't even damage the bakolite holder a lot of these contacts sit in, like the kill switch etc.

A little dialectic grease and it's good for many years.

I tend to collect broken switchgear, keep what's good and bin the rest. I may have some indicator parts if it ends up broken inside.

[Ken4004]

The contact plate IIRC are like small U shaped pieces of copper. About 10mm in length. They are easily distorted and end up with one leg of the U longer than the other. This can cause it to jam every now and then and sometimes not make the contact you want so the indicators don't work.

I use a Dremel and the finest of my radial abrasive discs to clean all the copper contacts, the white disc is fine for this as it's around 2000 grit, like a pumice stone actually. The contacts shine like new after just a few secs. Never had a problem with them not working after. The white disc is so fine it doesn't even damage the bakolite holder a lot of these contacts sit in, like the kill switch etc.

A little dialectic grease and it's good for many years.

Hi Ken thanks for the advice will give it a go next time it starts to play up again regards Ken

I tend to collect broken switchgear, keep what's good and bin the rest. I may have some indicator parts if it ends up broken inside.

[Athame57]

Years ago I had trouble like this. It turned out to be an earth connection to the lower of the three bolts that hole the headlamp sub-frame. After cleaning up a bit all went well.

[Ken4004]

Years ago I had trouble like this. It turned out to be an earth connection to the lower of the three bolts that hole the headlamp sub-frame. After cleaning up a bit all went well.

Ok thanks for the heads up I’ll take a look

[Ken4004]

I Must own up and admit that after nearly 50 years of wearing leather jeans, I now use denim jeans, kevlar lined, and fitted with hip and knee armour.  Very comfortable.

Maybe I should try a few pairs on , I must admit when it’s as hot as this it doesn’t take long to get sweaty, trying to get your leathers off is like trying to take a wet suit off