SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
Stripped thread
Athame57:
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on July 23, 2026, 08:24:56 PM ---
Good quality "mole" grips tightly applied, or one of those proprietary stud extractor tools will just unscrew this one, to then let you install new one.
--- End quote ---
I can't help comparing this to my non standard exhaust studs. The mechanic at the workshop I was using at the time advised me not to try and have them removed lest they snap off, which would be very complicated. I have a new set of studs gathering dust just now. You mentioned 'proprietary stud extractor tools' which I've never heard of. Maybe the better workshop I rely on now could do the job or is it still probably too dodgey? :-\
K2-K6:
--- Quote from: Athame57 on July 23, 2026, 11:23:10 PM ---
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on July 23, 2026, 08:24:56 PM ---
Good quality "mole" grips tightly applied, or one of those proprietary stud extractor tools will just unscrew this one, to then let you install new one.
--- End quote ---
I can't help comparing this to my non standard exhaust studs. The mechanic at the workshop I was using at the time advised me not to try and have them removed lest they snap off, which would be very complicated. I have a new set of studs gathering dust just now. You mentioned 'proprietary stud extractor tools' which I've never heard of. Maybe the better workshop I rely on now could do the job or is it still probably too dodgey? :-\
--- End quote ---
I feel tbe first guy, and his advice, was from decent experience and quite wise. These are notoriously fraught for weakening, corrosion and often well "entrenched " in their little home position.
They can snap easily, and if functional along with being secure, you'd not offer to tackle them for no good reason.
The fork stud having much more important structural load, usually they are generally a bit oily too, makes them far more approachable to remove, also being next metric size up (from memory) have a larger core diameter and so significantly reduced risk of snapping when working on them.
The exhaust , if snapped, a right pain to work on, with little option but to drill out, giving you the chance to understand what fraught means in engineering terms :) ultimate failure often leading to head off, boring out properly on a milling machine (you might as well do them all while at it) to then fit a stepped stud or insert before further use.
I'd leave them be, assemble with generous amount of copper grease unless you've a concours winning example.
Athame57:
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on July 24, 2026, 02:39:49 PM ---
I'd leave them be, assemble with generous amount of copper grease unless you've a concours winning example.
--- End quote ---
I think these new studs I have will be gathering more dust then. If the head comes of eventually I'll consider the big job of fitting them so as to avoid a broken stud down the road.
Mikep328:
There are two commons schools of thought re mechanical work - one is the "While you are in there" school which advocates replacing any/everything that can be accessed while you are working on some component.
And there is the "If it aint broke, don't fix it" school.
In many years of working on cars/boats/motorcycles (vintage and otherwise) I have personally found the second to be the better choice. As the mechanic who taught me a lot about such work when I was teen often said, "Sometimes the best thing to do is Leave it the F^$% alone!!!!"
Bryanj:
That comment is good EXCEPT when there are known problems that occur like 500 primary chain and dampers if the cases are split but not shells just because its apart, rarely wear and damned pricey
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