SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750

Re- chroming

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HondaFour:
I can recommend Derby Plating in Derby 01332 382408, again not cheap but the best chrome isn't . They do a very good job and look after customers. After plating my K4 rear guard, it lifted slightly after a year on the shelf so I sent it back and after they had dechromed it, they found it had pinholing in the bracing at the top back where the mounts are. So I sent them another in good physical condition and they did it free.

I used to live near to a classic vehicle restoration company and they only used Derby plating. I have also had my zinc plate done there, they don't loose anything like the small screws or washers.

SteveD CB500K0:
Guys - can you copy your posts to the "Recommended Sources..." board

Ta

Steve

AshimotoK0:
Quality Chrome are very near me in Hull  but I was not particularly impressed with the parts they did for me. Some of the parts cost more to re-chrome than you can buy them for new from David Silvers! They took ages to to get back to me and did not give a price upfront, so they basically can charge what they like. Depends on what you need rechroming really but anything thin like starter cover and clutch cover they seemed to remove a lot more metal that I thought necessary. ChrisR has a few nightmare stories about chromers he has used. It's the one area where you entrust your rare part to someone else  (e.g. K0 750 double-cut mudguard (fender)) and it can come back totally trashed. If you do the polishing yourself you must remove every trace of the nickel base. To check this I paint the part with a coppering solution made up of sulphuric acid and copper sulphate that the old guys used to use before marking out blue became popular. It will leave copper on the areas that are bare steel but any areas with nickel will show as a slightly yellowish colour. The copper will not adhere to the steel and can be easily buffed off afterwards. You can then tell chromers that you just want the part plating and it should be relatively cheap. I did this on my 400/4 parts in 1986. The place in Hull (who the Quality chrome guy used to work for) told me I had totally wasted my time in polishing myself but I told him to just chrome them and I would take a chance. The parts came out perfect and 26 years later still look the same. He obviously did not trust me that I had removed all of the base nickel plate. The Chrome plate can be removed by reverse plating with a caustic soda electrolyte and stainless steel electrode. Nickel is more difficult to remove by electrolysis and acid removal will get into any rust pits and cause even deeper pits to form. I think there is a nickel stripper around in the States which removes nickel chemically without attacking the base steel but not tried it yet. I find you can do wonders with a Black and Decker power file (with really fine belts cheap  off Ebay) and a buffing wheel. Mucky horrible job though (often entrusted by chromers to the 'tea boy') - but it's probably the most important job of the rechroming process

bobthebuilder:
Thanks All,
This is like a merry go round, same old story some good reports and some bad ones. Wish I had your knowledge and expertise Ash, as I would not know where to start, that is why I am looking for good reliable firm who can do it for me. Can see this is going to take a while just for me to decide where to send parts. I have little enough hair will end up with none soon.  :'(

Cheers Jock.

kaceyk2:
ASHI< are you a Hull lad?  ( I was born in Hessle!)

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