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Rewiring K2 with later high beam switch

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the-chauffeur:
Guys

I'm putting the finishing touches to my K2 rebuild and I'm at the point of fitting the headlight, but I've run into a few snags with the wiring - mainly that I've got more spare unconnected wires than there seems to be space/need for.  I'm getting my head round it slowly, but was wondering if anyone else has added one of the left hand mount plastic high beam switches to a K2, and if so, what changes needed to be made to the connections?

Coming out of the RHS switchgear, I've now got the following connectors:

Red/yellow - connect to starter circuit
Black - connect to cut out circuit
Black/white - connects to cut out circuit
Black - connects to lighting circuit
Brown/white - connects to instrument light circuit
Blue - high beam circuit
White - main beam circuit

Yellow?
White/Yellow?

All the diagrams I've seen say there should be 7/8 wires out of the RHS - can't quite understand why I've got 9.

From the high beam switch:

Brown with blue stripe
Black

I have a feeling I may need to undo a few of the existing connections and reroute them, but like I say, I'm struggling a bit.  Any advice as to what needs to go where would be great.  Oh BTW - I've tested all the other circuits and they work fine (brake lights, tail light, indicators, horn, neutral switch, oil pressure switch).  I 'spose that's what's referred to as a good start . . .

And something else that has just occurred to me - the bike is a European spec K2, which means it has a sidelight (for want of a better word). The lights should, therefore, have four positions - off, sidelight, headlight and high beam.  Unfortunately, I don't think this is going to be an easy job - with the K2 switchgear, there doesn't seem to be any way to have the main beam and full beam on at the same time - it's one or the other.  Guess that's why occasionally everything used to go dark when switching between the two.

Bryanj:
That RH switch ain't a 500 as they never had yellow or yellow white, i think that was 450

What you can do is fit the 750 round on/off switch and route the power out of that to the dip switch in the headlamp bucket, then leave all the lighting wires in the RH switch disconnected just using the kill and starter.
On/off switch is  35150-300-730, screw is 93500-04016OA

the-chauffeur:

Hey Bryan

Thanks very much for that.  You're quite right about the 450 wires - guess I must've mixed up my internals when I put the 750 one back together.  Ignoring the white/yellow and yellow wires makes a lot more sense.

I've already got one of those plastic hi-beam switches - that's the bit I was referring to previously.  The problem I think I've got now is that I can't run the main and full beams at the same time - which is kinda what I wanted to do.  Also, I've got one of the left hand switches that has a passing/flash setting - and combining the wiring for that with the wiring from the RHS confuses me even further.

I might just leave the wiring for now.  I fired up the 750 for the first time in about a year earlier on today.  It's going to take quite a lot of messing around with to get it to run right, and I've already found a couple of little leaks that are going to require the pipes off.  Meantime, I've got another electrical issue - the neutral switch doesn't seem to switch off (I think that's a little unusual).  I'm guessing the switch isn't seated properly or the o-ring isn't compressed enough, 'cos the gears engage fine . . .

Any thoughts on that one?

Cheers



BTW - the clutch is noisy as hell; I know it's the clutch 'cos it goes when the lever is pulled in.  I'm hoping a carb balance will tone that down.

SteveD CB500K0:

--- Quote from: the-chauffeur on June 10, 2011, 07:38:41 PM ---BTW - the clutch is noisy as hell; I know it's the clutch 'cos it goes when the lever is pulled in.  I'm hoping a carb balance will tone that down.

--- End quote ---

Dead cert symptoms for unbalanced carbs.

Bryanj:
Neutral light on could be trapped wire and why do you want both beams on? Generator can't cope with that

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