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Front brakes.

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david451:

--- Quote from: kaceyk2 on July 07, 2011, 12:40:16 AM ---Sometimes I am astounded by learning something new.
Thought I would share this with you.
My rally car building and driver neighbour showed me a magic trick to bleed bike brakes.
Take the claiper off the fork leg, and put a piece of wood inbetween the pads.
Get it held up in the air HIGHER than the master cyclinder on the handlebars.
Then do the bleeding, the air bubbles will now rise to where you want them to rise too....... The bleed nipple!
This really works well.

Tip no. TWo:  Use silicone brake fluid, it will polish chrome and paint work instead of wrecking and stripping it, well worth the extra couple of quid. It's purple, and goes in er, (sweary word coming up avert your eyes)
harleys.
there said it, but I did use a lower case h.

Hope this helps.


--- End quote ---

When my bikes came one of them horrible things fell on the delivery man, blood all over the place so there was. The daft step thing folded up and it pinned him to the side of the van. All huff and puff so they are and want to fall over all the time.

Silicone fluid or dot 5 is not compatible with all applications because of its poor lubrication properties, it compresses more, wont absorb or displace water like dot 4 and needs changed more often. dot 4 absorbs water in the system that's why it changes colour to brown and if you change it every 2 years it's fine, and cheep anorl. The last thing is that you are not meant to use silicone if it had mineral in the system.

The racing lads use it but I don't like it, it has a habit of collecting air.

Spitfire:
I fitted braided hoses and Speed Bleeders to my calipers, they work great.
http://speedbleeder.com/
Cheers

Den

Graeme77:
The saga continues.

I temporarily bodged the caliper piston, ill get a new one, i just wanted to get some pressure in the system.

I fitted the new Hel lines but it was still the same. Pumping the lever gets a little pressure (but it still comes back to the bars).

I stripped the master cylinder (that circlip is a pain when its corroded in!) and cleaned it all out. Bore looks great but i havent measured it. Anyone know the wear limit? I can measure internal bores very accurately at work.

I put it back together once all the crap was out (lots of gell type stuff) and re-bled but its still the same. I figured it would be. The seals looked ok, but thats no guarantee!

So, if the master cylinder bore is ok ill order a re-build kit. Are the repro ones any good?

No fluid is leaking from the lever, but i guess the pressure could be escaping past the piston cup.

Bit annoyed as i failed my bike test yesterday, shouldnt have, but thats another story. Unfortunately it means spending another 240 quid so funds for repair items are thin on the ground now :(

Spitfire:
I used the master cylinder rebuild kit from David Silvers and it worked great, there is a very tiny hole in the master cylinder connecting the cup with the bore, it is very easy to block, is it clear on yours ?

Cheers

Den

Graeme77:
Yes, i checked that right at the begining.

There are re-build kits on ebay for 20 quid, worth it, or should i go for a genuine one?

Anything i can save a bit of money on is helpful, but its no good if the cheap parts are cr*p LOL.

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