voltage regulator

[peteb]

hi ive had an intermittent problem with the electrics where the bike stops running suddenly.when it has stopped there are no lights up ie ignition or oil light,a quick fiddle around with the fuse and of it goes again ihave checked all the fuses connections etc but there doesnt seem to be any problems while i was doing this i noticed that the rectifier was hot to the touch so i decided to check the charging volt and current. the voltages at the battery are as per the book but the current was about 7amps rather higher than the recomended 4 amps .it is better with the lights on but still high.do you think this over charging could be making the rectifier break down temporarily causing the bike to cut out.is the regulator volts only or is it volts and current.how warm should the rectifier get.when i went for a run with the lights on it ran ok.

any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks peter

[Bryanj]

Regulator is voltage only and that current should not be a problem for the rectifier.

If it stops dead with no power the most common problem is the ignition switch then the fuse (DON'T JUST LOOK AT IT, REPLACE IT)after that a bad connection in the loom(Rare)

[SteveD CB500K0]

As Bryan says, the soldered connections on the back of the ignition switch are prone to dropping off. I have resoldered them in the past but never with any great success. I ended up buying a new one...

[Bryanj]

Yes Steve, But doesn't the 400 have the vertical switch between the clocks like the F2 (and dare i say it CBX1000) with the contact block on the back that has a habit of falling off when the plastic gets old?

[hairygit]

Also worth checking the bottom of the switch isn't loose where the plasic switch body joins the main metal lock body (assuming you're talking about a 400 four) The lock on my 750f1 (identical to 400 four) had a habit of doing the same, and it was because the plastic lugs on the electrical part of the switch had worn away with vibration (Did I really say VIBRATION on a Honda four? ) and was moving away from the lock body enough to break the connection, slap the bottom of the switch and it works again. A right pain in the butt, the only real solution is to get a new one, same switch onCB400f1/f2,  CB550f1/F2 CB650z CB750 f1/f2 and as someone bravely mentioned C.B.X.  Don't pay through the nose for one though, decent pattern ones are out there, found some on e-bay in the U.S. for just over

[peteb]

thanks for the advice i will take a look at the ignition switch

[ColCB400 4]

Been watching this thread develop and must afree with the previous posts.
I was having total power failure and concluded the ignition switch was the problem.
The 6pin block connector can be a problem with deterioration of the wire from the loom.
The block connector is set horizontal and the wires can rub against the stock.

checks
get the bike running at steady tickover on the centre stand.
Stride the bike and rotate the handlebars through full range of motion.
While doing try to apply additional pressure on the ignition wires.

If it cuts, thats your problem. If it dosnt cut out, then its something else.

remember your trying to make it cut out so "plenty of pushing of wires" but dont bust it, your just trying to aggitate it to expoit a wire fault not snap it off.

I found the block connector required renewal. I got a box full as a single connector was not economical to purchase. If your require a new block connector kit and spades...pm me and we will se what we can do 

[peteb]

hi i took the lock out last night and checked the switch which appears to be quite new all the contacts were clean and showed no signs of arcing and the harness was replaced by the previous owner. ive done all the usual waggling of wires and cannot find any problems .
so if the weather permits i will take it out for a ride this weekend and se if the problem persists.
thanks to you all for your help i will let you know what happens at the weekend

cheers pete