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Shaving down neutral switch O-ring

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Hinomaru:
Try this:

If you put the o-ring on the switch first it may not seat correctly. Notice how the boss on the neutral switch is tapered? Put the o-ring into the engine case first. Use a bit of grease to hold it in place, then insert the neutral switch up into its normal position.

   

the-chauffeur:
Thanks chaps.

Bryan - cases are clean as a whistle after vapour blasting.  I think the problem is more to do with wear on the face of the shift drum that the switch bearing runs on.  I've got three or four shift drums and all show some degree of wear; the bast one I've got is in the engine now, but the neutral light stays on in second.

Don - yeah - I noticed the clip is sided.  It's the right way up.

Hino and K2 - I'll try them ideas . . . and so much for the switches not being rebuildable - check out the posts halfway down this thread.

UKROBK7:
good to know they ARE rebuildable!

the-chauffeur:

Yeah -  I should have added a caveat to that . . .

 . . . they may be rebuildable, but I still can't get my spare one apart.  The plug on the underside seems to be held in by a thin ring of what I'm guessing is molten plastic (looks not unlike a wax seal).  That's easy enough to pick off, but getting the plug to turn is not proving so straightforward.  I've busted a couple of tools on it and I've backed off until I've worked out how to free the threads.

Might try some very gentle heat, but other than that I guess I'm going to have to look at fabbing some kind of four pronged device that I can lock in a vice.

K2-K6:
I guess it should be safe in the oven to about 80-90 deg as the motor will usually reach that anyway.

There's enough talk of cooking various parts of engines on the site to get a recipe book together!

You would feel if it had any more "give" in it at that temp to make it worth chasing.

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