SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750
front forks
Tomb:
When I was getting an age related reg for a CB72 I was told I couldn't ride on the road without the number plate, therefore had to use my trailer to get it to its first MOT. That was a few years ago, things may have changed.
david451:
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on November 30, 2011, 08:40:30 PM ---There is not usually much preload on the fork springs and they are quite easy to undo the caps. I do them with a socket/short extension/ T-bar to undo with them in soft vice jaws (if out of the bike).
If you keep leaning on them as they come undone you can gently release the cap as you feel the threads end to avoid them pinging out.
Putting them back in, I lean on the cap while turning it anti-clockwise until you feel the thread ends pass each other, then start to do them up. This helps to avoid any cross threading.
Cable nipples are probably "cast" in soft metal onto the cables. I've found it easiest to replace them by cutting a section from a brass screw, drill a hole for the cable and a small countersink for the side that the cable isn't approaching, then clean and solder to new length.
If the cables are in good condition you may find that they have more value to someone needing that spec and so replace them with std length.
--- End quote ---
That's the oil changed ok it was as easy as you said.
Put the wheel back on but not quite sure the correct way to do this. The leg caps have a letter F on them does that signify something never noticed until I cleaned them up, also do you just set the axle with a nice angle for the speedo cable or is there a proper setting.
Does the bolt that has a spring on it on the caliper go up tight or is there an adjustment, and lastly "phew, sorry folk", does the rear brake drum stay go up tight or do you leave it with a little movement.
Got all the black bits done and will put the wiring back in next week, should get her running if all goes well.
Bryanj:
The letter F faces forwards and if you put the plat side of the clamp on a level surface you will see that one side is machined off more than the other--the high side is tightened first till solid with the slider and then the other till the axle is clamped.
Speedo drive is set so the cable run is smooth.
The caliper bolt has to be adjusted correctly, procedure is in the manual.
The rear brake torque arm has a shouldered bolt and the arm goes over the plain part then a spring washer that also fits over the plain part of thr bolt (some have rubber washers) then a plain washer that only fits over the thread then the nut done up tight. DO NOT forget the split pin or "R" clip through the hole or its an MOT fail. Other end where it locates to the swing arm is similarly located
david451:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on December 11, 2011, 08:09:44 AM ---The letter F faces forwards and if you put the plat side of the clamp on a level surface you will see that one side is machined off more than the other--the high side is tightened first till solid with the slider and then the other till the axle is clamped.
Speedo drive is set so the cable run is smooth.
The caliper bolt has to be adjusted correctly, procedure is in the manual.
The rear brake torque arm has a shouldered bolt and the arm goes over the plain part then a spring washer that also fits over the plain part of thr bolt (some have rubber washers) then a plain washer that only fits over the thread then the nut done up tight. DO NOT forget the split pin or "R" clip through the hole or its an MOT fail. Other end where it locates to the swing arm is similarly located
--- End quote ---
Thanks for that.
Can I just confirm one thing though, a shouldered bolt is usually used so that when the nut is tightned up the bolt still moves, in this case when the original washers were used the frame side remained loose but the hub side tight. Is that what you mean.
Bryanj:
Nope both move
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