SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
500 K cafe racer conversion - build thread
Tomb:
Mathew is spot on to point out that care must be taken using stainless bolts. A2 316 stainless is Ok for engine covers but A4 should be used if replacing 8.8 tensile steel bolts. I've seen lads with shaft drive bikes (XS1100 to be specific) change out the bevel drive 12.9 tensile bolts for stainless, not good!!!
Can I also say that the application, as in how the bolts are used matters, which leads to disc bolts, coz disc bolts are in shear stress they ain't as critcal as bevel drive end caps which are in tensile stress, the disc bolts would have to be guillotined by the disc and ali hub to break and this wouldn't happen before your tyre would break grip, by a looooooooooooooong way.
I have A2 stainless M8 button head screws holding my discs on my XS1100 wheel (avatar bike) with different twin piston calipers fitted without any problems.
Another one to watch for is using stainless nuts and bolts, try to use A2 bolts with A4 nuts to avoid galling and use copperslip. Similar stainless fasteners will gall very easily. Clicky
Tom (time served Toolmaker for 18 years, now working as Mech Fitter in pharmaceutical industry, looooots of stainless ;))
Ewan 500 K1:
--- Quote from: Ewan 500 K on March 11, 2012, 08:11:33 PM ---
--- Quote from: Ewan 500 K on March 07, 2012, 06:43:15 PM ---
--- Quote from: matthewmosse on March 07, 2012, 06:22:11 PM ---Be carefull of using stainless for high stress or mission critiacl areas like brakes, it's not nessisarily that strong and I'd be after high tensile steel or getting bolts from someone who sells parts specifically for this job. Mot stainless is A2 grade and not up to the job for disk holding. Phill Denton engineering are the only firm I can think of who I'd go to for shiny bolts for this job. That said I don't do shiny
--- End quote ---
cheers for the heads up on that one ... I had it the the back of my mind that normal stainless bolts werent the ones for the job. Tried Phil D a while ago I think , but they dont have the neccsary bolt sizes as stock, would need to do a one off. Anyway, got a hold off 6 GL1000 disc bolts (112mm long) from DSS the other day... well pricey at £22 inc vat and delivery. Hoping they'll do the job. I was going to order new nuts to fit as well, but fell over at the price of those --- £3.25 each +VAT & delivery
--- End quote ---
just opened my DSS parcel, they only had 4 GL1000 disc bolts in stock.... anyone could a couple (112mm long ), part no. 90122-371-000 ?
--- End quote ---
sorted, manged to source 6 decent 2nd hand ones, with nuts from this guy in Glasgow: http://www.wingovations.com/
K2-K6:
Well explained Tomb and valid knowledge for anyone modifying stuff.
I look at some special built bikes and wince at some of the load paths created.
Most high stress stuff makes use of rolled threads as compared to cut stuff as well, many don't take this into account either.
Ewan 500 K1:
It's been a wee while ....... drilled the two brake discs today. Next up is fitting the double calipers
laterz ...See my seperate post at http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=5571.msg27566#msg27566 for the pain and agony of setting up my dual discs
Ewan 500 K1:
--- Quote from: Ewan 500 K on July 24, 2012, 08:12:34 PM ---It's been a wee while ....... drilled the two brake discs today. Next up is fitting the double calipers
--- End quote ---
Here's what I needed to do it:
1. Roll of wall lining paper (£2.99) for drawing templates on (one tempate need for left hand disc and one for the right hand side one)
2. Prototractor (99p) , compass (99p), 12 inch rule & pencil for drawing out the templates
3. bit of parcel tape to stick the templates on the reverse side of the discs.
4. Centre punch to mark the discs for drilling before removing the temapltes
5. On single 8mm 5% cobalt drill for all 144 holes. (£4.85). One 12.4mm countersink bit (£9.99)
6. Bottle of cutting fluid (£8.99)
7. 2nd hand pillar drill picked up for £30 at a car boot sale
What I did:
1. put the lining paper over the disc and used a pencil to mark the circumference
2. found the centre of the circle on the paper using the compass.
3. marked out 24 sudivisions of the circle
4. Used the compass to scribe arcs and circles on the template to get the hole positions
5. Stuck the template on the reverse side of the disc using parcel tape
6. Used a centre punch to mark the positions of the holes through the paper onto the disc
7. Took the templates off the discs
7. Used a single 8mm 5% cobalt drill to drill all 144 holes in both discs. Pillar drill set at lowest speed (540rpm) and used plenty cutting fluid, making a single pass for each hole using even and constant pressure (ie no reversing back out part way through)... if its going right you get lovely spirals of swarf coming of, as in pic below
8. Gave each hole a light countersink on each side.
9. Job done.
laterz ...See my seperate post at http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=5571.msg27566#msg27566 for the pain and agony of setting up my dual discs
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