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400 four knocking noise.

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Clem2112:
All six holes tapped very well.
Plenty of WD40 helped to get the chips away.

After a thorough clean up the gear, basket and plate were assembled with the new rubbers.
Used red loctite thread lock on the screw threads and torqued to 6 lb ft.

There is now no rotational slack between the gear and basket.

Before assembling the clutch I dressed the basket slots on the drive faces using a fine file and finished with emery paper. The friction plates thicknesses were checked at 2,6 to 2,7 mm and look fine.

Lobo:
Ok - a bit embarrassing I know...

I'm home for a day soon, and will fit my 'new' / renovated clutch basket courtesy of ttr400 (Kevin) & his cushs. Problem is, I don't bloody remember ever seeing the 25mm thrust washer (# 90455-333-010); very likely its always been there, ie simply remaining in place on the main shaft each time I've dismantled the clutch.

So, question.... if it was missing, would it be obvious, because whilst rattly, the current clutch works / feels / adjusts fine.

... and (2) is there anything 'fancy' about this washer... or can I substitute a good similar sized washer?
If anyone has one in their hands can you measure its dimensions please (primarily thickness) & I'll root around my Brunei tool box before next trip home to save time / grief.

Ta,
Simon

Clem2112:


 :o.. Don't miss this item it out as it does a crucial job !

The thrust washer sits behind the clutch assembly and usually stays put because a film of oil will make it stick to the shoulder on the input shaft and its hole diameter fits the shaft.
I had to look for it and convince myself it was there....you'll see slight wear on each side so keep it the same way round if you take it off.

The top hat shaped sleeve in the basket's bore reacts against this washer when the clutch nut is torqued up. The washer is replaceable and cheap too, shafts are always expensive !
It will be a fairly precise ground width and be made in a specific steel grade for doing its job I would think.

Without the washer in situ, the basket would wear against the shaft as the two rotate at different speeds when the clutch disengages. The sleeve and washer provide a bearing for the basket to spin with a very slight end clearance.

 Not sure, but the basket may hit something without the washer in place - with the hex head screws used in the kit the clearance will decrease a bit.
 
btw... No big change in the sound down there on my bike but glad I did the fix anyway. One of the rivets had lost part of it's head !

Lobo:
Cheers Clem2112,

I am indeed quietly hoping it is in place... certainly if there's significant thickness to it I'd surely expect a horrible graunching from within on start up. My missus btw takes glee in that she always thinks I have a hand full of parts whenever I've rebuilt something ... but in truth I'm meticulous and I sure haven't thrown any washer away. If it's missing it'll be from long ago, and a lesson to use a parts diagram on any rebuild versus 'put it back the way it came out'!

It is not easily replaceable, hence my question.... the part (& its later part #) are both discontinued and unavailable on all Internet searches (inc DSS). I have though sourced a 2nd hand piece @ £9 (ouch) inc p&p.

Disappointed to hear you still have clutch rattle... having heard Tom400's 400F & its silky idle.... and indeed my own's silky idle when 'basket left off.... I'm hoping for more. Will be really ****ed off if it remains... have spent a lot of effort sourcing this noise & trying to fix it....

Thanks again,
Simon.

Lobo:
Further to Clems recoditioning of the clutch drive cushs... my experience.

Drilling off the rivet heads easy and straight away the whole assembly fell to pieces as the original  Cush rubbers 'shrivelled'. As Clem commented; they were not symmetrical.... tho' my take on this is simply the forces on these cushs always in the same direction ... ie compressing them from one side only over their 35'ish years causing the miss-shape.

The rivets! By crikey. They did come out... eventually... but with a drift & wallop enough to wake the devil.. (I only managed this by grinding them flush to the 6 bosses ... ie completely eradicating any possible flare in the protruding rivet shank.)

The rivet holes perfect for the M5 tap with no work... and to ensure the thread 100% perfect I tapped from the back (ie inside of the clutch basket) outwards... giving the supplied M5 bolts perfect starting  thread versus chewed thread from 'iffy' starting of the hand tap had I tapped from the outside.

The rebuild satisfying... the cushs a tight push fit, absolutely no play now. Bolts tightened beautifully, with RED Loctite of course.

This Saturday fitment - I do hope this bloody rattle has been put to bed!

Thanks Kevin - a great kit.

Simon

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