SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
Screw etiquette
Spitfire:
Back in the olden days replacing the philips screws was the first job that I did on my new 750, my much restored one is the same, so much easier to work with.
Cheers
Den
ST1100:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on July 04, 2012, 12:58:12 AM ---...every single bolt and screw was replaced with stainless when I was restoring the bike the first time
--- End quote ---
Any issues with contact corrosion there?
From my instinct I'd treat the threads with a thin layer of AntiSeize or at leas a gentle smear of copper paste?
Spitfire:
I always use copper based grease or anti seize where steel/aluminium contact takes place, or in hard to get at places such as the centre stand bolts.
Cheers
Den
StPeter:
--- Quote from: SteveD CB500F on July 04, 2012, 09:11:58 AM ---All my old 500s have them and they are a PITA to keep clean and shiny.
Take a look at what modern bike manufacturers use - my Tiger uses 8mm hex bolts.
--- End quote ---
I suspect the bolt choice on our Tigers would be governed by cost (a hex head must be cheaper to make than a cap screw)
Thanks for the other input. Coppaslip is never far away in my garage.
Tomb:
As a Mech Fitter we're not allowed to use copperslip (coppaslip) on ali on site, its 'sposed to cause electrolitic corrosion ::) We're told its the copper doing the corroding, not the screws.
I've had it on all my stainless steel capscrews on my bikes for years without any threads corroding away though ;D
We are supplied with another antiseize paste (who's trade name escapes me)
--- Quote from: Oddjob on July 04, 2012, 06:40:02 PM ---once when I had the long lower rear engine bolt made specially, it seemed to bond with the stainless nut and it stuck so hard I broke the bolt trying to remove the nut.
--- End quote ---
Galling Clicky (or gauling depending on how you want to spell it ;))
If using stainless nuts and bolts, use A2 bolts with A4 nuts to prevent galling. Oh and copperslip!
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