SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750
Charging troubles
ST1100:
--- Quote from: the-chauffeur on August 27, 2012, 01:27:41 AM ---
Quick update . . . not much to add 'cos I've spent the day pulling the back end off my ST1100.
--- End quote ---
Tell more about it here: http://ww2.my-mc.com/ ;)
--- Quote ---but I don't much find the need/opportunity to exceed 4k revs, and generally find that around town requires much less.
--- End quote ---
I'm facing similar issues when doing too much commuting with my ST(s)...
After 1~2 weeks urban use the starter turns noticeable slower, likely also due the rather short distances, taking more energy out the battery, then charging back in... whilst while on tour the pinion barely engages to get that 4V firing up instantly...
But back to old SOHC generators:
what's the opinion/experience with flywheel magnets getting lame over the decades?
I'd observed such issues with starter motors and alternators of GL1000.
Bryanj:
Its not a permag, its excited by the power fed into the field coil which creats a magnetic field dependant on the voltage/current applied. The wavy groove then makes the field move about over the stator causing generation.
The normal cause of low output is in order of commoness
(1) bad connections causing volt drop/power loss
(2) broken wires in loom/connector blocks
(3) incorrectly set reg box or bad connections at reg box espectialy earth or sense wire
(4)Bad diode in rectifier--More common in aftermarket than original, sometimes brocken wire connector
(5) VERY RARELY a stator winding gone bad--invariably due to accident and frequently easily repairable.
This is why i said i can give you some extra tests to the manual basic ones if they say you are not getting full output.
Waggles:
Interesting, like the chauffeur I am uncomfortable revving higher than I need to ( I reason that every extra engine rev I don't do now I can do some other time! ) but obviously I don't labour the motor either, I have a standard headlight which is on all the time and round town I ride at 2000 to 3000 rpm and my battery stays charged just fine.
Not sure what I will do when the bulb goes, but surely as long as the wattage is the same as standard I should be OK ........
K2-K6:
Experience using both K2 and F2 in the 70's 80's and both types supported H4 headlights with no problems at all, either Cibie Z180 or Standard fit Honda labelled STANLEY H4 on the front glass.
I know all the H4 55/60 watt halogen bulbs will have equal draw whatever unit they are used in, but from this it was clear that the spec would support that and charge the battery so you are maybe needing some more detailed checks as Bryan says.
The F2 standard unit was easily one of the best by a long way in that era.
When you've run for a while with lights on, check the battery earth lead to see if it's getting warm? if it is you need to improve it in some way.
Bryanj:
OK, If a bike is used regularly and not just for short runs it should stay charged. My original 500 i rode 7 mileseach way to work and back with a halogen headlamp and a regulator that would "stick" occasionally at no charge and that never failed me, but in the trade we did have customers that used their bikes infrequently for short journeys and went through a battery a year!
On batteries I have found that a Yuasa battery is 20-30% dearer than a generic cheapie but lasts a lot longer and holds charge better
ALSO now that they have removed the component that helps the batteries gas (sorry the name escapes me at present) if you let a battery get very discharged it is almost impossible to get them to accept a charge again-----I have had limited success starting with a 24 volt charge for 10 mins but this can be dangerous if not controlled properly
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