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Forks advice

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pptom:
Hello all, picked up the new bike on Saturday and am really pleased with it, runs lovelly - went out for a cheeky 20 mile 'shakedown' ride yesterday (no MOT yet). However, one thing that really surprised me is the handling - it feels really wallowy and a bit vague.
I suspect that at 36 years old the old springs have sagged somewhat, but to be honest i didn't really know what to expect having never ridden one before.
I've just ordered some new Hagon shocks - they've asked me my weight etc and I'll see how i get on with them, with the option to change springs as and when, if required, but i think my real issue is with the front end. Wheel bearings show no movement and i suspect the stem bearing may well already be tapered - think i can see this at the bottom of the stem - also there is no notchiness or free play. Tyre pressures good, new rear tyre and a matched 'ribbed' front - they are continental super twins?
I had a tiny weep from one of the fork seals, which may have been caused by transporting it, so new seals on order and i'll do an oil change with some modern 10Wt (everything seems pretty much spot on with the rest of the bike so i don't suspect maintenance has been scriped on or done incorrectly). I've read 'hondamans' advice about shimming the springs to take up the sag, but my other options seem to be new progressive springs from Hagon (they don't sell linear springs but reckon their progressives are about 10% firmer than the stocks) or the gold fork emulators (which would need to be coupled with some new linear springs) - both of which get pretty good reviews in the US.
Initial thoughts start with the cheapest option first - change oil and seals and measure springs, then make up shims to bring the spring free length back up to spec - but, since this will affect the springs characteristics, would i just be better off fitting the Hagon progressives?
I know its a heavy bike, but has anyone got some recommendations for sharpening things up a bit, particularly in the relation to the above fork options?

Photo's to follow by the way!

Green1:
Hello and welcome
My 750 was exactly the same when I first rode it the front springs were on there limit and the fork oil was a foul smelling sludge.
I highly recommend progressive front springs my bike would shake its head violently at speed before I changed them.
Can you move the rear swing arm from side to side?Bronze bushes are a wise investment and finally almost any new rear shocks are better than the old stock ones.

Mick   

hairygit:
I'll second what Green 1 said, also, the forks should use ATF (automatic transmission fluid), and many of these contain addatives to swell the seals and help prevent weeps and leaks ;D

pptom:
Thanks chaps, thought about the ATF thing, I've used it plenty in the past, but I like using modern stuff now, plus there is the option of fine tuning using different weights. Pretty sure I've read that 10Wt is about equivalent to ATF.

Thats a couple of convincing votes for the progressives - would you say they give the ride a 'sportier' feel?

K2-K6:
I don't mind ATF but like you, feel that a fork oil is a better performer if you are looking to tune the response and use things like progressive springs. I've always believed ATF to be rated at 5/10 viscosity.

The idea behind a progressive spring is to give a light rate that is supple at full extention for good comfort and wheel response to small bumps, but then with a stronger support to give more resistance when you hit something bigger and/or break hard to prevent the fork from bottoming out.

If you want a more sporting handling bias, it is resaonably common to jack the rear of this era of bikes to give the forks a steeper angle and quicken the steering a little. Something like 1inch longer rear shock will help take a little of the "stability" out of the staid original setup.

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