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CB500K REAR WHEEL - EQUIVALENT?

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Bryanj:
To those interested i will explain now but anybody is welcome to email me, just don't expect a quick answer due to working hours.

There are two types of spokes  20 of each and the length from bend to head is different

(1) you can see the head from the out side so it goes out to in

(2) the head is on the inside so it goes in to out

Take the 20 of type (1) and using your picture lace up the wheel with just those and get all evenly tight and true the wheel

I put the wheel spindle in a big vice and spin the wheel using a large screwdriver to judge up and down and lateral error

When doing this note that anything less than 1/8 inch is good and look at the rim to see where it has been welded together as this frequently causes a "kick" that can never be trued out but you will go mad trying.

with the wheel trued this way---a lot easier as you are only playing with 20 spokes you can now fit the other 20 one at a time as they will happily fit from inside to outside without fouling anything.

Tighten evenly and check for runout.

The first time you do this expect to spend 2-3 hours on the job but after a few you can get it down to 1/2 hour

I have found with genuine or DSS kits that it is easy to get the rim fairly true by just winding the nipple on the same amount as they are very uniformly made

Hope that helps and have a fun, frustrating time

kmn:
Many thanks - I'll get the rim & spokes ordered this week and let you know. What is life without a challenge, or 40 of them...

Ewan 500 K1:
couple of docs and things I refferreed to:

I used following guides for the wheel building;

http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-wheels/spoke-wheels/

http://www.classicbikes.org.uk/ ..... wheel building page

1. Got loads of help from this forum and the US one

2. Cut the old spokes and rim off the hub

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3. Polished outsides of hub and painted centres with etch primer and black epoxy paint

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4. Worked out the difference between the two spoke types

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Ewan 500 K1:
5. Put the "B" spokes on the outside of the hub, ie poked them through the holes from the inside of the hub to the outside. Note that the pic is to only show arrangement of the "B" spokes only, I put all spokes on the hub before lacing any of them
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6. Put the "A" spokes on the inside of the hub, ie poked them through the holes from the outside of the hub to the inside. below Note that the pic is to show arrangement of the "A" & "B" spokes only, I put all spokes on the hub before lacing any of them)
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7. When all the spokes were on the hub, I sat the hub on a table and sat the rim over it and loosely arranged the spokes. Then, laced the A spokes on the speedo side hub to the rim and put the spoke nipples on a couple of turns. Then did the B spokes for the speedo side of the hub, Turn the wheel over, do the "A" spokes for the brake disc side, then the "B" spokes for the brake disc side , again putting the nipples on a couple of turns.. So, all spokes now roughly laced up
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8. Made a truing jig out of an old pair of forks bolted to a work bench. Put the wheel the on the jig
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Ewan 500 K1:
9. Went round all nipples taking one off at a time, put a bit of oil on the female nipple thread and a bit of copper grease on the rim nipple seat. Then put the nipple back on and tightened it 10 turns with a cross head screwdriver. Worked round the wheel until all spokes / nipples oiled, greased and tightened 10 turns.

10. Used a dial gauge and spoke wrench to get the wheel true to 0.2mm vertical, then 0.2mm horizontal, then checked vertical again. .....Always starting at biggest high and low points and tightening spokes a  turn or so at these points and tightening adjacent spokes half a turn. This was fairly easy, taking about an hour or so to get trued up. (note that its impossible to get the rim true to this degree at the point where the rim weld is)

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11. Job Done

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