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400/4 low oil pressure + Other Misc problems

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Mr-Gear:
Good afternoon  gents,

I've spent some time cleaning the clutch up on my 400f (it was full of shit and rust) and replaced the plates. However upon reassembly I have two problems:

Problem 1: the kick start lever doesn't seem to return after being depressed, I've checked around the area and cant see anything suspicious. So any ideas on that?

Problem 2: after reassembly the oil pressure light doesn't seem to be going out. It took a while for it to go out when I changed the filter before I dod the clutch but I cant really remembe how long this took, it doesnt seem to go out now though. So how long does the engine normally take to gain oil pressure after oil/flter changes and where am I going to start looking for problems? Could the oil pump be bollocks, could there be shit in an oil way? If so where would this most likely be?

I'm going back tomorrow to look at it again so if you guys could give me some ammo to work with, that would be great!

Mr-Gear:
Just looked at this 350f/400f shop manual I got off the web, I'm gonna drop the sump tomorrow (should have done it anyway) to see if the oil filter screen is covered in crap and inspect the oil pump too.

ka-ja:
Hi,
    Possible cause of kickstart not returning,is the return spring "hook" not being engaged in the right position in the crankcase casting, engage the kickstart return spring along with the shaft before fitting the clutch cover.
   I have known of the the oil pump suction filter to be partially blocked, usually caused by excessive use of jointing compound of the setting variety, ie. silicon and one time with blue hyomar, and yes, it does take a while to ( almost a minute on a overhauled oil empty engine) fill the oil galleries and filter. I personally refill an empty engine through the tappet covers, 1/2 each end of the cyl. head, to help the oil feed lag on starting.Over time, oil pumps gradually fade, unless of course, a foreign body gets in it and strips the teeth.
       Hope this helps-----Ken

Mr-Gear:
Hi Ka-Ja,

Thanks for your reply, I discovered that everything was fitted properly with the kickstart lever, however out of desperation I had to replace the old cover gasket with a card one which was thinner and when the cover was tightened it bound the kickstart up a bit, slackening this off has sorted the problem out and it should be fine when my new gasket comes through the post.

The oil pressure ended up being fine once I popped the oil pan off and cleaned the crap out and the oil screen.

I have now discovered another problem!

Problem 1: I am getting clutch slip, this occurs when i'm at about 30mph and open up past 5 - 6k, The cable has slack on it and I believe I assembled the clutch correctly (Steel plates with he sharp side of the lugs pointing toward the engine), I also replaced the springs when I replaced the friction plates. I am using Halfords Classic motor oil 20W-50W (Link: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_166289_langId_-1_categoryId_165581)

Problem 2: I cannot seem to reliably shift down, Especially from second to first. shifting up seems to be ok-ish but shifting down at times seems to leave me pressing on the lever without anything engaging, whether rolling forward/backward with the on or off.

Possible Problem 3: The engine seems to be quite rattly, I'm not experienced enough to tell whether or not this is a bad thing and I've herd these engines are generally quite rattly. Sounds like a chain to me, the sound is coming from the centre of the cylinder head however. the cam chain pensioner bolt looks to me like it is out of travel. I'll upload a couple of pictures and a video on my phone later.  EDIT: Attached should be a picture of the tensioner bolt (Might have a couple mroe turns left in her but she doesn't look good as far as a seized bolt is concerned, haven't tried it)

ka-ja:
Hi Binman,
                !st of all, I would question the oil you have put in, spec. says 10-40grade, and according to others, steer clear of fully synthetic, although it hasn't caused me problems, but 20-50 could certainly cause clutch slip, and it could also cause clutch drag,enough to hamper gear changes.
                Also hope you was aware that one of the friction plates is different to the others, and sits on the outside of the other plates, setting up the clutch with the end adjuster should be done before the clutch cable is fitted.
             The camchain adjuster bolt is a locking device for the internal spring loaded adjuster.
                As for the cam chain adjustment, an old dodge is (with engine running) to remove the cap screw from above the the adjuster bolt between the front mounts, and when you slack off the adjuster lock screw,push down hard through the uncovered top hole with a bit of bar, then tighten the adjuster screw back up. This will not however correct for a worn camchain or seized adjuster.
              And to add to all that, the primary drive chain can wear and rattle, built in internal rubber shocks (in the starter clutch and clutch) can solidify with age causing rattles, and of course carbs out of sync are also rattle causing.
              I would get some 10-40 in it for starters.-----Ken
               

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