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It has arrived!

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JustcallmeMrT:

--- Quote from: matthewmosse on August 28, 2014, 08:58:26 PM ---I had a few of the same issues on a 550 a fair few years ago the cracked brake mounting on the fork lower might be weldable but I just replaced mine as a replacement was cheap at the time though I did ride it like that for a bit. I cannot recall what i did to resolve the disk alignment for twin disking - think I just replaced filed a light champher onto the pads but I did have piles of comstars and disks off a job lot of comstars around so could mix and match a lot. I think nowadays I would look at taking the hub back 2 mm on the disk seat but that requires quite a big lathe as it is not possible to safely dismantle a comstar wheel and rebuild it.

--- End quote ---
I'm intending to put the original spoked wheels back on.  Would it be the same procedure?

simonster:
If you intend to try and repair the fork case mounting lug, you should check out the Laser aluminium repair system demonstration video on you tube. It brazes with aluminium at less than 300 degrees and it has twice the strength and no nasty flux required. It works a treat on anything non ferrous and its well worth the £25 for five rods. I've tried standard aluminium brazing rods and the laser rods really do the business. Anyone with a mapp or butane torch could work with them for cracks, holes stripped thread on all ally components. I've just used them for brazing up a hand made ally battery mount on my cafe conversion and the join is stronger than the ally pieces. It should work for your lug.

JustcallmeMrT:

--- Quote from: simonster on August 28, 2014, 10:17:14 PM ---If you intend to try and repair the fork case mounting lug, you should check out the Laser aluminium repair system demonstration video on you tube. It brazes with aluminium at less than 300 degrees and it has twice the strength and no nasty flux required. It works a treat on anything non ferrous and its well worth the £25 for five rods. I've tried standard aluminium brazing rods and the laser rods really do the business. Anyone with a mapp or butane torch could work with them for cracks, holes stripped thread on all ally components. I've just used them for brazing up a hand made ally battery mount on my cafe conversion and the join is stronger than the ally pieces. It should work for your lug.

--- End quote ---
Thanks Simonster,  will have a look.  Might be a relatively easy fix.

tom400f:

--- Quote from: JustcallmeMrT on August 28, 2014, 10:11:04 PM ---I lied, one more question .  Is this the original brake master or has it been replaced to run the dual front disks?



--- End quote ---

Looks original to me. There must be a splitter presumably where the union with the lower hose(s) is.

Whether it's up to the job I couldn't say.

JustcallmeMrT:

--- Quote from: tom400f on August 29, 2014, 09:12:07 AM ---
--- Quote from: JustcallmeMrT on August 28, 2014, 10:11:04 PM ---I lied, one more question .  Is this the original brake master or has it been replaced to run the dual front disks?



--- End quote ---

Looks original to me. There must be a splitter presumably where the union with the lower hose(s) is.

Whether it's up to the job I couldn't say.

--- End quote ---
Yep, the splitter was on the lower hose.  Overall the whole system looked pretty rough.  I can get a brand new aftermarket Goldwing GL1000 master cylinder setup from DSS for £35, so I think I'll do that instead of rebuilding what I have, as I don't think the original can push enough fluid.

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