SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550

It has arrived!

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matthewmosse:
 Brake rear liner is a perfectly do able job, if you have a lathe and patience, I have done them for myself but there is a guy who does thrm professionally at a price I wouldn't hesitate to pay. The different back plates issue is one to watch out for across any of the cb500 and 550 bikes, the change seems to have been arbitary, and owners may have mixed and matched since. I had comstars on one of my 550k3s and thought they looked pretty neat, I got away with stock master as far as I know though all the advise is to upgrade, maybe I had a upgraded one? I called that bike 'box of cogs' as that was the condition I bought it in, £200 for a van load of cb bits, mostly cb250N but a complete 550, with several engines but every engine was in bits. If you ever wondered what a mess a canchain can make, think along the lines of only being able to use the selector dog shafts and cluch plus cover out of a whole engine. I think the pistons would have been ok if the damp hadn't got to them and sized the rings in solid. 
Regardds bleeding the brakes, my preffered method is a bit of clear pipe, comes with most bike batteries for free and a big seringe to squirt fluid up to the master cylinder from below, I had several that would not bleed the conventional way , this way got it moving, then I suck the fluid back down from the master with the seringe until it runs clean and free of air bubbles.

tom400f:

--- Quote from: matthewmosse on September 04, 2014, 02:07:12 PM ---Regardds bleeding the brakes, my preffered method is a bit of clear pipe, comes with most bike batteries for free and a big seringe to squirt fluid up to the master cylinder from below, I had several that would not bleed the conventional way , this way got it moving, then I suck the fluid back down from the master with the seringe until it runs clean and free of air bubbles.

--- End quote ---

Exactly this. How I did it and takes no time. Firm hydraulic action thereafter.

JustcallmeMrT:
Thanks again for all the tips guys, as I said before, I'm totally new at this so all advice is welcome. 
The original bleed valves seem pretty corroded, so I figured if I had to replace that I'd go the speed bleeder route as I'd read a number of posts where they were recommended.  But, if originals work fine with the methods you give then I'll stay original.

The comstar wheels are going to go.  I have the original spoked wheels and like the look much better.

Bryanj:
Before trying to undo the bleeders heat the caliper with a plumbers blowtorch and spay on wd40 or similar (don't stand too close due to lots of smoke and maybe small flames Also use a Tee bar on a deep socket to get an even "Turn"

bike-pusher:
What he said.  I always heat up the caliper before trying to undo those tiny Honda bleed nipples.

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