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Author Topic: Starting the engine  (Read 47566 times)

Offline El__burro

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #120 on: January 24, 2015, 01:50:14 PM »
Ash,
The one I am after is marked 657A kk
probably not the same



Thanks for trying.
El__burro
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Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #121 on: January 24, 2015, 05:21:19 PM »
Not sure what the differences are.  I know there are specific carbs for K0/sandcast and the later F2/K7, with the accelerator pump  but the K1->K6 /F1 ones, I thought would have been pretty much the same bodies. Over to the experts ( Trigger / Bryan/ Bitsa etc ??)

I do have a pair of outer bodies for K7/F2 as well  somewhere if anyone ever needs them.

http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_specs/carb_specs.html (them good ole Chopper boys once again ..bless 'em  :D)

Ash
« Last Edit: January 24, 2015, 05:55:41 PM by AshimotoK0 »
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“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline Trigger

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #122 on: January 24, 2015, 05:56:15 PM »
Basically the same body's Ash but, for the price of the post it is worth trying to match.
I still have the set of 857A's that i can't find any reference to. I have the set of 064A, 657A and the 857A and can't find what the difference is.
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Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #123 on: January 24, 2015, 06:31:13 PM »
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“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #124 on: January 26, 2015, 07:09:02 PM »
Well I found the spare outer carb. but I think it must be the Left one because the air screw is on the opposite side to the one in your picture. However one of the inner ones looks almost identical to yours but the vacuum take off is on the other side, which may be livable with. Trig what do you think?

Will post pics tomorrow as I am away tonight.

Ash
« Last Edit: January 26, 2015, 07:11:48 PM by AshimotoK0 »
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“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline El__burro

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #125 on: January 26, 2015, 07:09:46 PM »
Okay, thanks.
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Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #126 on: January 28, 2015, 07:45:17 AM »
Asked the question here about carb differences 064A and 657A

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=144577.0

Ash
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“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline El__burro

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #127 on: January 28, 2015, 09:46:38 AM »
Thanks Ash, I will follow that post closely.
I have glued the carb post with Seal All. Although it is an ex-broken carb, it'll do until I find the proper replacement. Yesterday I splashed some £ £ £ on 4 carbs repair kit from David Silver. Hopefully they will be here tomorrow.
Thanks
El__burro
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Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #128 on: February 01, 2015, 11:38:10 AM »
Sorry for delay. Got this back from US site:

Re: Difference 064A and 657A CB750 carbs

657a and 064a bodies are interchangeable. Stamp only denotes which internals were installed at the factory. Unless you get real creative you cant swap positions due to the crossovers and vent tubes.
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 Offline HondaMan
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Re: Difference 064A and 657A CB750 carbs
« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2015, 07:43:29 PM »
Quote
The 657A carbs are not emission-controlled, the 064 versions are. The difference was/is in the taper of the idle air screws, which control the mixture to 2500 RPM, which [at the time] was the upper RPM limit for the EPA tests. In practice, the 7/8 - 1-1/8 turn mixture change of the 657 carbs is about 15% richer/leaner than the 64 series, due to more accurate tolerances in the later carb.

But, they will work fine together: you may find the 64 air screw must be set a bit further out than the other carbs, like 1/16 turn more, to make the plugs all the same color after 500 miles or so.


THIS IS WHAT I HAVE GOT ..PLEASE CHECK IF IT LOOKS SUITABLE AND THEN I WILL US CLEAN IT

Ash

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“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline El__burro

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #129 on: February 01, 2015, 12:19:14 PM »
I see no differences.



Thanks
« Last Edit: February 01, 2015, 12:22:00 PM by El__burro »
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Offline steff750

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #130 on: February 01, 2015, 12:21:42 PM »
 ;) time to start kicking your guts out
 keep kicking it over  until oil light goes out it should take about two minutes too get oil pressure up
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Offline El__burro

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #131 on: February 01, 2015, 04:49:53 PM »
I'm not sure why oil pressure light doesn't come on. I have removed all the oil from the engine and have half of the tank left.  Do you suggest I kickstart it rather than press the starter button?
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Offline Johnwebley

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #132 on: February 01, 2015, 04:58:20 PM »
it is VERY important to have a working oil pressure light,

 the motor needs to be spun either by kicking,or starter  before starting,enough to enshure you have oil pressure,

 without that,you will ruin all your hard work in less than 60 seconds !!!!

suggest you check the oil switch.wiring and bulb

sort it for safetly
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Offline Green1

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #133 on: February 01, 2015, 05:03:56 PM »
That's why I like my oil pressure gauge that's the only Yankee mod I agree with.

Mick
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Offline ka-ja

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Re: Starting the engine
« Reply #134 on: February 01, 2015, 07:44:53 PM »
Quote from: El__burro on February 01, 2015, 04:49:53 PM
I'm not sure why oil pressure light doesn't come on. I have removed all the oil from the engine and have half of the tank left.  Do you suggest I kickstart it rather than press the starter button?

    As per 400/4, with the ignition on, try the wire from the oil switch to earth somewhere, it should light the oil lamp, if it does the oil switch is u/s, if it doesn't, there is a wiring fault
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