SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
What do I check?
LesterPiglet:
--- Quote from: JustcallmeMrT on January 26, 2015, 10:14:16 PM ---Just looked at a replacement DID cam chain, and they're split link. If that's the case, can't I cut the one that's on there and use it to pull the new one through, avoiding the need to pull the crank?
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I have done that thousands of miles ago.
JustcallmeMrT:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on January 27, 2015, 12:40:12 AM ---No horseshoe on a 500/550.
If the head gasket is still sound I'd leave it alone, the tensioner can be removed by removing the skull cap/rocker train cap and removing the cam, the tensioner is held by a 6mm bolt at the back of the head, remove that and undo the 6mm nut from the adjuster screw and you should be able to push it forward and lift it out.
As Bryan says, the pistons won't come out of the bottom of the casing but you can split the rods off the crank to allow not only the primary but the camchain to be threaded off the crank. All you need to do is remove the primary shaft in order for the 2 casing halves to be split, assuming of course you've removed all the bolts/casings. The primary shaft can be removed by screwing the step bar bolt (lower engine hanger bolt) into the end of the shaft and using one of the footrests as a sort of sliding hammer. There is a thread somewhere showing pics of how to spot if the primary chain is buggered, look for it. Keep track of where everything came from, especially the conrods caps, they must go back onto the same rod they came off.
Sounds hard but actually a bit of common sense and it's fairly easy.
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Ok, I actually think I can visualise all the parts you mentioned - sounds doable. Will have a search round for how to tell if the cam chain and primary chain are worn and have a go this weekend.
tom400f:
While I would post crackpot ideas to get the crank out that just won't work ::) I am firmly in the pull it apart completely camp. There is nothing like knowing all there is to know about your engine. Simple beasts to dismantle.
But of course up to you... :P
JustcallmeMrT:
Ok, so this whole discussion started with replacing the tensioner which I'm 100% sure is needed, and I can understand that you may want to replace the cam chain and primary if you're going to split the case, but is there a way of telling if it is actually necessary to replace these parts before I go in ratchets and wrenches blazing?
matthewmosse:
Just a note of caution on doing just the tensiner with head and barrels in situ, it is possible to have the tensioner not seated properly doing it this way. Don't ask how I know this, :-[ but the result is a mangled tensiner. There is a sockett its bottom locates into. Personally I am in the rip it apprart camp , I have done just the tensioner in situ but the engine in my case soon failed again even after getting the tensioner in right, mine was a 500/4 mill, usa inport, supposedly very low milage and for some reason repeatedly had tensioner issues, I have done a fair number of 500 and 550 rebuilds to fix leaky head gasketts or revive hopeless engines to get their last few years commuting in and never had the issue before but it has coulored my oppinion of trying to keyhole fix awkward jobs like that. Too easy to get wrong if you don't do a lot of engines, the book is aimed at a strip down so it can be easier to do as the book does than risk missing a step as you try to skip though to relevant bits. Sounds like you will need most of a gaskett set, by that stage, a full gaskett set isnt much more cash then just the gaskets you disturb and it isn't much more work. I did my first 550 motor in a long day, rode it home from work Friday morning and a week of touring Scotland setting out on the Sunday morning, with a nice set of used barrels installed when I found the installed pistons were missing their rings which had exited through the exhaust valves leaving quite a mess. Hence the several more rebuilds. I prefer to know what everything inside is like even if I know I am running a ruined head on it's last legs, at least I can be looking for bits for a rebuild and riding the bike at the same time.
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