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"Second Chance" Project
Mike on a bike:
9/1/16
Ok update time folks. I have removed both fork legs and swapped over my undamaged replacement lower fork leg. Changed the oil in both legs as I have no idea what oil the PO has used. Forks now back in place.
I had a starting problem as the clutch starter seemed not to want to engage and sounded like a bag of spanners. (see video link)
https://youtu.be/pNQa_kcCmcE
I took off the stator cover, and a visual of the starter cogs said all was well. I consulted good ole youtube and again found my answers there. I managed to pull the stator assembly off to reveal the starter clutch mechanism underneath. All held in by 3 screws that had the heads "nicked" to prevent them from turning. I was surprised that all three screws were loose but held firm by the nicks. I stripped the rollers and removed the springs. I think the pictures will tell the story. One good thing was by watching the video I realised the PO had placed the starter cogs thrust washer on the completely wrong side of the cogs. Ejit!
Now a rebuild kit from our friend DSS was £29 +vat+P&P that almost totals £40 all in. Fook that for a bunch of soldiers, I'm from Scottish decent and a bit tight with the purse strings. I only want to replace the freakin springs. Well a bit of digging on Ebay resulted in 3 springs for £6.00. Result! ;D
I fitted them today, buttoned it all up but with a little bit of thread lock just in case. First turn of the key and it sparked into life again.
I'm so glad that all happened whilst it was on the bench and not in the middle of nowhere in the piddling rain as my luck would have it! ;)
Carbs still need to be properly set up, but that will be one of the last things I do after the final stripdown
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcThzx0-vBU
Link for the springs. 30mm long
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331335690881?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=540529797465&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Mike on a bike:
16/01/16
At long last the build is starting to move, been waiting over a year for this. All wiring has been ripped out and binned.
All useless brackets and fixing points are no more.
Fitted the electrics box and mounted the ignition key. Oil tank moved slightly and fixed in a cleaner manner.
Bracket for the rectifier mounted so it's hidden below the seat where it wont be seen.
I have decided to ditch the solo seat and go with a proper old skool look seat. I know my poor back will thank me for that
move in time to come. ::) Seat pan now made and mounted.
Rear mudguard had been cut to allow for the chain and chainguard but it wasn't finished nicely so a filler panel was
inserted to make it look like it was not an afterthought. (you can just see it to the rear of the oil tank)
Mike on a bike:
I am putting forward controls on my chop and I am binning the current set up of a long single ugly rod running the length of the bike and want to make the rear rod "A" step to the inside of the rear frame and "B" to the outside of the frame. My technical question is this....Can anyone advise me what diameter rod should I use to keep a minimum profile but remain strong enough to stay in shape under heavy braking. The last thing I would want is the push rod "B" to buckle or bend under stress. I have scoured the net to find pictures but have come up blank, most forwards run a disc at the rear, mine is a drum. Any advice much appreciated.
totty:
You could probably do this more easily and neatly with a cable.
Krzychu:
Hi Mike, my starter sounds exactly the same as Yours. Repair kit on its way to me. I got if of fleabay for £24,95 complete with the springs, rollers and all.
Love the face when You got Yours going 😜 Sounds insane ðŸ‘
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