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CB350F Restoration by royhall (NOW FINISHED)

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beemsquar:
Looking good Royhall!

I've been following this thread closely as seems very similar to the 400.

Out of interest, how did you refurbish your brake disc?

Andy

royhall:
The brake disk wasn't too bad so not worth the cost of a re-grind. Just cleaned it up with a course Scotchbrite wheel in the pedestal grinder. My rear disk on the 750F2 was re-ground by David Burton Engineering at Thornton-Cleveleys for £45, came out like brand new.

beemsquar:
Cheers Royhall, might give that a go myself. DSS are asking £125 for a new one, not including vat or delivery!

I just started a new thread, but probably should have asked you first, did you put any grease in your hubs when installing your wheel bearings?
I'm installing the same bearing kit, but wondered if the axle needs greasing first?

What gasket kit did you use on the engine build? Are DSS any good?

What graphite paste did you use and did you coat any other components other than the ones you mentioned previously in your post?

Or are there any good resources out there for newbie engine rebuilders?

This thread is proving very helpful and I'm loving your attention to detail.

royhall:
Hi.

The axle question is answered on your other thread.

This time round I used a gasket set from Cruzinimage (you can find them on eBay). As they come from Japan its best to order everything you need from them in one hit as they will combine the postage (email them first). Don't buy the front disk pads from them though, as mine don't fit.

Resources (I assume you mean books etc) a good parts book is more important than a workshop manual. Most have exploded drawings clearly showing where everything goes. It also has details such as bolt sizes which is very important on a 400/4 as some of the bolts need to be the exact correct length (ie. front engine mounts and engine case bolts). Unfortunately the available 400/4 parts book is probably the worst I have seen for a while as the drawings are very small and over stuffed with writing (PM Ashimoto he usually has a good stock of PDF documents). I find the Clymer manual to be the easiest to use, but that's down to the person, some swear by Haynes or the genuine Honda?

This is the first time I have used a graphite assembly paste, I usually just use clean engine oil. It is called Graphogen and its not cheap. It was recommended by Trigger so no reason to not trust it.

Glad this thread is being of use to members, and thank you for all the positive comments about it. Not sure about being an inspiration though, but just glad it helps. It makes the time spent doing it worthwhile.

royhall:
Just finished rebuilding the carbs. Got that carried away with it, I forgot to take the stage by stage photo's. All I have are the before and after shots.

This is what I started with.

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Bit of a rusty clogged up mess I think you will agree.
Stripped the carbs right down and sent all the component parts off for polishing and re-plating where required. Had the bodies ultrasonic cleaned at the local lawnmower repair shop. A really nice old chap.
Totally rebuilt the carbs using new seal kits. They were really cheap, £25 for all four kits, so am hoping the quality is okay. Should add that they fitted really well so expect they will be good.

These are the after shots.

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The pictures don't really do justice to how much better they look. Wish I had remembered the during shots, O well.
Am going to polish the tops again and possibly the float bowls as they still look a bit pock marked.
Not had petrol in them yet, but will bench test them before fitting.

Next project is to try to complete the back end.

I would say this bank of carbs (although a bit fiddly) was easier to do than the dreadful PD carbs fitted to the 750F2 that I did on my last project. So hope they will be easy to set up as well.

In all, I would say the rebuild took me about 20 hours in total. Would probably be less than that next time as this was the first set of 350/400 carbs I have done. Without all the re-plating and polishing, may be less. Worth it though if the bike is going to run well.

Bye for now.

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