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CB350F Restoration by royhall (NOW FINISHED)
royhall:
No problem will post Thornton Paints details tomorrow. He's that close to me I didn't need his number so will get it when I pass tomorrow.
Had my chroming done at R&S Electroplaters in Manchester, Mark Bray-Cotton is a forum member. The chroming was good, but the second batch was chroming and BZP (clearly labelled) but it all came back chromed. Not really bothered as it looks better anyway.
The decals came from AFE Graphics in the states, they came as a full kit with all the warning labels etc. £58 including postage and I got lucky with the import duty, they must have missed it. ;D
royhall:
--- Quote from: MCTID on September 09, 2015, 07:58:57 PM ---Lovely.....can you post the phone number/ E Mail address/ Website of Thornton paints please?........and where do you get your chroming done......and do they Zinc/ Galvanise parts.
Ta mucho.......
--- End quote ---
The details your asked for are:
Thornton Paints. Guys name is Alex, 01253-851040, www.thorntonpaints.co.uk, thorntonpaints@hotmail.com
R&S Electroplaters. Guys name is Mark, 01616834908, www.rschrome.co.uk, sales@rschrome.co.uk
royhall:
Made a start getting the front end together so I can get it back on its wheels as I need to move it around (very limited space in the garage, or is that too many bikes).
I was hoping I was over the pattern parts disaster that was the back mudguard (should be back from the chromers any day now). Well I was wrong, the front mudguard was nearly as bad. The mudguard itself is fairly good but the stays are a good 10mm too long, this means force to get the bolts in. Had to use a piece of aluminium bar levered against the tyre to get them in. Although now its on it looks pretty good, it's not acceptable at the price they charge for these parts. Big lesson learned, from now on I will look for better OEM parts and get them re-chromed (should have listened to Bitsa).
Anyway, enough moaning here's the pictures.
Really pleased with the way the forks came out. The alloy polished up well, and Mark did a good job with the re-chroming. Didn't bother sending the tubes out to Phillpots as the working area was spot on, so I just cleaned up the rust behind the yoke area.
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It was a fairly straight forward job getting the painted parts fitted and the forks into the yokes. I already filled the forks with 125ml of 10 grade suspension fluid whilst the forks were on the bench. That iconic horn cleaned up really well. Unfortunately the bracket was supposed to be redone in BZP but a mix up at the chromers saw the whole batch I sent being chromed. I'm leaving it though as it looks good (it will probably upset the rivet counters though).
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Finally got the bike stands back on and lifted it of it's assembly box (it's got a bit heavier since I put the frame on the box).
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Got the wheel mounted and temporarily fitted the handlebars. Started tightening everything up from the bottom so I can get the correct alignment of the front wheel and handlebars. The top yoke and headlamp ears are coming off again soon due to a monumentally stupid error on my part, more on that later.
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Now here's a big tip. Don't say to yourself "I've put the front wheel on and it's not coming off again" ::) That's what I did and what a struggle it was to get the mudguard and brake on. Don't know why I do these things. Put the mudguard on first then the brakes then the wheel, that way you wont get stressed out and say a lot of things the neighbours shouldn't really be hearing. :D But I did prove that it is possible to fit the mudguard with the wheel in place.
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Any comments on the front mudguard, looks a little bit too far off the wheel. Not sure, but it's staying on now whatever (see I'm doing it again).
royhall:
I'm back into waiting for parts yet again, so had a go at assembling some other bits and pieces.
Got the new seat out of it's box to have a go at the Honda logo. I was dreading getting this out as it's a pattern part, and we all know how that story goes. Gave it a dry fit before starting the logo in case it was heading back to silvers, but thankfully it fitted really well. 8)
Got a logo template from Piki (what a really nice chap, he had a couple of goes at it to get it spot on). The logo went on well and I carefully masked off everything else. Following a recommend on here I decided to use silver Rustoleum upholstery paint. This paint I would not recommend as its as thin as water. Due to the seat being a grained PVC it gets behind the template and leaves a load of "star crazing" that needs to be cleaned off with a scalpel afterwards.
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I ending up spending over an hour carefully scraping back the overpaint to try to get a good edge. It's not too bad but am going to have another go when my patience reservoir has re-filled. Next time I'm going to find a much thicker paint (so it doesn't run into the grain as badly) and probably carefully brush paint it though the stencil.
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Will report back later when some more parts have arrived, and I've got round the disaster with the headlamp ears.
Chris400F:
Was that a brushed or sprayed paint you used for the logo Roy?
I used the Rustoleum spray (from Homebase) and it was fine for me. Slight bleeding but nothing like yours appears.
Trick seems to be to make sure the stencil is well stuck down to the seat, using a fingernail or similar, and
apply the spray paint in thin coats so it dries quickly and doesn't bleed into the grain.
My template wasn't from Piki but suspect they are all much the same type, seat fabric is grained much like yours.
Hope you manage to clean up the excess OK
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