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CB400 Project
beemsquar:
I do like the look of the Brituro silencer Julie, I don't suppose you could upload a video with the sound could you please???? Im interested to know what setups people are using and how they sound.
Damn if I was at that stage of my build I would have bid on that :(
I've just plowed some more money into the bike, I took the rocker cover, head and block to a local machine shop to see what they could do and the guy just said "I wouldnt bother mate"Its not economically viable to repair them.
In the meantime I have ordered a used rocker cover, cylinder head, cylinder block and a low millage camshaft and sprocket from Steve at 400fourbits, for a very reasonable price!
The rest will have to wait until next month, when I will order a new piston and ring set with gudgeon pins etc, a full gasket and oil seal set.
Oh and inspect the crankcase and its contents with the aim to put the engine back together again between now and September.
Nurse Julie:
No problem, I will record it at the weekend
beemsquar:
Awesome thank you Julie, I look forward to it.
beemsquar:
Ok, I've been away from the project for a while as I was on holiday and was waiting for tools and bits to come back from the blaster.
Ive had the cush drive rubbers removed from the rear hub by a machinist as they were a bugger to get out, but I was sent the wrong cush drives twice by M&P direct, who then told me they don't sell them for my bike! I thought £14 for a set was too good to be true, there £11 each from DSS!!!
I have now been able to remove the clutch as I was waiting for my clutch holding tool to arrive in the post and have split the cases today.
I need a new gear for the gearbox as it's got part of the teeth missing.
I used a green plastigauge ( I was given red wax and a green gauge) which measures between 0.175mm-0.5mm and measured all the bearings, I'm not sure I've done it right as the Clymer manual says to place the wax bit between the bearing and the crankshaft and check the clearance is not greater than 0.08mm, but the plastigauge instructions says to put the wax bit between the journal and the bearing.
The main bearing shells look OK to me, no scratches or pitting, but could anyone tell me there thoughts? No 3 on the top looks a bit scratched.
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I hear Bryanj is good at this stuff.
After reading the post on this forum "Do you need to fully torque down when measuring bearing wear with Plastigauge?" I think I have deciphered the codes on my crankshaft, from the rotor I have A A A A and 2 2 2 1 2 on the crank and on the conrods they read 1C 1C 1C 2C, I'm not sure the 2 is correct, could be a one, its very hard to tell.
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The code stamped on the block is BBBBC and the shells are as follows....
Bottom TOP
1-Green-D2I A STD 1-Green-D2I A STD
2-Green-D2I A STD 2-Green- D2I A STD
3-?-D0I A STD 3-?- D0I A STD
4-?-D3L A STD 4-?-D3L A STD
5-Green-D2I A STD 5-Green- D2I A STD
So am I right in saying that the main bearing code is B2, B2, B2, B1, C2?
Im confused about the big end bearings though and where do I find what colour I need? The Clymer book just has a letter code without number.
I've read other posts I just can't get my head around it!
Any help would be greatly appreciated as always.
beemsquar:
OK, I've double checked this and the number 2 on the second cam from the left in the picture should be on the furthest cam on the right.
So going over the codes again gives me
B2, B2, B1, B2, C2 for the main bearings and A1, A1, A1, A2
I work this out to be brown, brown, green, brown black, which is weird as the shells that are in there now are definitely all green except for the 2 that have no colour left on them and all look quite newish. I have the same problem Royhall had in a previous post that black are discontinued!!!!
I have no means of measuring the crank etc accurately, any suggestions?
The conrods then would be red, red, red, yellow?
Can anyone shed any light on this??
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