SOHC.co.uk Forums > Project Board
1976 CB500K2...
ST1100:
Its also my opinion that a factory build engine won't grow any better by someone (me) knocking it apart...
Just treat and handle properly, apply care when servicing and address any issues prompt and accordingly.
Bryanj:
If it wont tick over and the idle screw is unadjusted all the way plus play on the cable chances are that you have got the adjusters screwed in so much that the slides are "Hanging" on the adjusters.
To get the filter bolt out its either a 3/16 or 1/4 Whitworth socket that is a "Hammer Fit" on the bolt head
matthewmosse:
My cb500/4 got to 170 000 miles before I had any reason to go inside the engine. Even then the primary chain hadn't taken lumps out of the crankcase or anything sinister, only issue was she would not stay in 1st or second under load. My own view is that if you can attain that kind of milage with little more than oil changes then taking a healthy engine appart is a waste of time and gasketts. On the other hand I have had other sohc 550's where the inside of the engine has been in a very bad way at 30k miles, these have inevitablynsuffered from rebuilds by beginners before I got to them. My rule of thumb, if it looks good, sounds good and runs good leave alone. If there are any sighns of gaskett goo owning previous owners, then have the rocker cover off, check oil supply to top end, then play it by ear from there.
regards oil filter bolt, set of stilsons / pipe wrench has often proved effective for me.
ST1100:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on January 03, 2016, 09:22:27 AM ---...chances are that you have got the adjusters screwed in so much that the slides are "Hanging" on the adjusters...
--- End quote ---
Since idle screws are set properly to 1+1/8th turn out, also my theory that I simply overlooked having the slides resting on the bottom of the bodies with no tension on idle adjuster, belly-crank or cable...
But since also the floats are acting up a little, I'll have to make a do over anyway... considering their original condition I actually didn't expect getting them to work perfectly right away... ;)
So, the plan is
a) get them carbs working properly
b) check valve clearances again (rust & deposits might have worked off)
c) sync and adjust to a nice, smooth idle/tick-over
d) shift through the gears with the bike secured(!) on its main-stand (no working brakes yet...) with the rear wheel spinning as load
e) remove breather cover for inspection
f) have another compression test
If nothing serious appears, I could then dump the oil again and remove that filter case before dropping the engine out the frame for restoration processes...
ST1100:
Not much new yet...
Parcels keep arriving: new oil bolt, new (NOS!) air-filter housing (essential as the old one was drilled, thus provide altered air-restriction), a set of new coils (pattern parts though...)...
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