SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400

CB350/4 Countershaft bearing.

<< < (2/4) > >>

AshimotoK0:

--- Quote from: AshimotoK0 on January 08, 2016, 12:25:47 AM ---Think it's pressed on like the CB250/350K. On that bike initially,  the bearing and shaft were available separately but laterally only as a complete assembly due to difficulty in replacing the bearing. So, I think it can be done but you would need the right kit to do it.  my problem on one of  my CB250K engines  was not the bearing it was the collar that the oilseal fits onto. Due to a period of not being used, the surface was corroded & pitted. I had the hardness of the collar checked and it had not been surface hardened so I did consider getting it machined down to suit the the next O ring ID size, however, I got a full gearbox off eBay in superb nick for £20 so I never bothered.

--- End quote ---

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]


You will see below what i mean about the CB250/350 TWINS  gearbox parts:  the countershaft itself, less bearing, was available separately with its own part number but latterly only  combined with the bearing as on the 350/400/500 fours

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]


[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

ka-ja:
Hi, In the eighties, Mr Honda dealer  showed me the parts manual and the shaft and bearing was only available as a built-up unit.
     I used the seperately listed bearing from the clutch shaft and used heat on the bush and a puller behind the bearing to remove the bearing and the oil seal bush, on assembly, the seal area bush was "sweated" back on, did the job, but not for the faint hearted.

Gixxer-18:
 Thank you Ash, and thank you too Ka-ja for your information! I think you're right that it is a difficult job; I didn't think it would not be!
I guess it's a tight press fit and a bearing puller might be the answer to removing the oil seal bushing (Collar) and then the bearing, then the gear, if you can get one to fit between the two! Applying enough heat to "sweat" the collar without destroying the bearing is a consideration too.
If a very rusty/damaged shaft is available, and I mean a real scrapper, like chipped splines etc, I wouldn't mind having a go.
Ash your comment about the collar not being hardened is interesting too, i wonder if the old collar could have been drilled and then split with a nut splitter, the bearing or gear replaced, and a new collar heated and shrunk back on?
One of those Honda brilliant simple designs, but a bugger to repair without replacing the whole expensive assembly conundrums.

Regards
Nigel.

AshimotoK0:
Nigel. ....I have a scrap rusty collared  CB350K countershaft .. I will try it out,  as we have presses here where I work and a MAP gas torch to heat it , if needed

ka-ja:
Hi, Slitting the seal bush is a no-no unless you can get another one made, I remember putting it back on backwards to get an unworn area for the seal to run on, and I also put a small spot weld at the outer end to make sure it was secure!

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page