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Broken cylinder head stud

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royhall:
Just gone against the habit of a lifetime.

Read somewhere on here this morning to torque the head nuts dry. Well I have always used a drop of 3in1 oil and never ever had a problem.

Today I take advice and torque them dry, and guess what, a broken stud. My own fault, you should always go with what you know works.

Any ideas how to remove the remainder so I can fit a new stud. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Am a little bit down hearted with this just at the moment. Sorry.

Bryanj:
Put a nut over the stud that's left and get the inside mig welded to the remains. that should warm it enough to help removal.

As to torqueing dry that's all I have ever done mate and for it to break it had to be either a bad stud or the torque wrench didn't work right

royhall:
Thanks Bryan. Torque wrench was only set to 2/3 torque as I do them up in stages. It broke with hardly any effort at all, is that something you've seen before? Got a TIG welder so will take your advice and have a go tomorrow after I calm down a bit. Many thanks for the advice.

royhall:
When you say dry threads, are they truly dry. If its a rebuild the threads will have soaked in oil for 40 years and unless it was all thoroughly degreased (like mine was for painting) the threads will still have old oil on them.

AshimotoK0:
I tried to remove a 750K0 stud that had broken off flush with the crankcase for yonks, no luck. I tried welding a nut onto it, even etched away every trace of zinc plate on the nut and bead blasted it clean but the nut kept breaking off . Then I watched guy on a USA car programme doing the same and the same happened to him. So researched it a bit more and  read somewhere if you build up weld with no nut until you have large ugly looking blob of weld on top, then file a couple of flats and grip with a mole grip it came out dead easy. I think I also heated the weld blob up too but it worked a treat. You can reheat with a nother small weld on top . I used a MIG welder.

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