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TEST RIDE #1

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El__burro:
..so just the full set in my basket will do,
no other parts are needed to move from the 18 balls bearing to the new one?
Thanks a lot
el__burro

hairygit:
That is correct, and they are so much easier to fit than loose balls, especially the bottom set!

El__burro:
while I wait for the bearing to arrive, I have removed the old ones.
I had 17 balls on the top bearing and 15 on the bottom.
Hopefully this was the cause of the problem.

Until next update...
el__burro

El__burro:
actually the set arrived just now.
anyone able to tell me in what order they go.

K2-K6:
From the photo it looks like bottom row right into the bottom of the frame (headstock)  and the bottom middle onto the base of the steering stem BUT you'd have to get the seal on there first as it should turn and seal inside the frame aperture to prevent anything entering the bearings.

It's hard to see exactly which way the seal goes in without being there so you'll have to assess that yourself.

Once you get both of the outer tracks into the frame and seated,  you can push the steering stem into place and drop the top bearing into place. It looks as though you've got a dust seal for that end too so youll have to test fit it too see how it goes but looks from the photo to be cup side down. There is a chance that it's supplied with two seals to give an alternative fit to the bottom and none at all at the top, again, you'll have to decide what is what.

You can then put the top yoke on with none of the pinch bolts done up. Then tighten the main central clamping nut at the very top up to about 30lbs of torque while moving the steering left to right, this will pull the bearing seats into the frame properly. Then undo the nut and relighting to about 5lbs, this should set the steering to a very light smooth movement without slack left in it.

Then you can build the fork legs back into it for final assembled.

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