Honda-SOHC

Found I had this squirreled away, though I share it ..........

Handy Hints

For those of us that have ever used a Haynes Manual

On a similar theme to the correct usage of common tools, or those of us that have ever used a Haynes Manual
Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
Translation: Clamp with multigrips then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise.
Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: You will skin your knuckles!
Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell matey!
Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That’ll teach you not to read through before you start, now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox.
Haynes: Pry...
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...
Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (catering size).
Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly had my eye out"!
Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: OK - that.s the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part.
Haynes: Lightly...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then re-check the manual because what you are doing now cannot be considered "lightly".
Haynes: Weekly checks...
Translation: If it isn’t broken don’t fix it!
Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn’t broken... it’s about to be!
Haynes: One spanner rating.
Translation: Your Mum could do this... so how did you manage to botch it up?
Haynes: Two-spanner rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, tiny, ikkle number... but you also thought that the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you).
Haynes: Four-spanner rating.
Translation: You are seriously considering this aren’t you, you pleb!
Haynes: Five-spanner rating.
Translation: OK - but don’t expect us to ride it afterwards!!!
Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!
Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search for it in the dark corner of the garage whilst muttering "bugger" repeatedly under your breath.
Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it’s going to need a new one"!
Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to cut yourself!
Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that’s it, that big spherical blob of rust.
Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.
Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark pugs removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.
Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: But you swear in different places.
Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
Translation: Snap off...
Haynes: Using a suitable drift...
Translation: The biggest nail in your toolbox isn’t a suitable drift!
Haynes: Everyday toolkit
Translation: Ensure you have an AA Card & Mobile Phone
Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn’t moderate heat.
Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book bar the thing you want to do!

A question....

Starting to assemble engine and next is to get the pistons onto the rods.
Just tried to fit a piston circlip on one side before fitting it to the rod and struggling to get the circlip into the groove.
They seem to give much more of a fight than Yamaha ones in times past.
Anyone have a good method thats works for them?

Michael

Evening all,

I had this saved for future reference, cover most japanese makes. Its using NSK references as I assume its one of their distributors in the US.
Includes wheel bearings, headrace sets and crack bearings where they are ball races.
Hopefully a help to people in the future.

Michael

As I was sorting out bulb references I came across the attached wall chart.
May be of use to other members?

Does anyone know if Honda always used DID wheel rims or did they mix with Takasago?

The front wheel on my bike is a Takasago but may well be a rebuild as at some time the bike did have a accident in the past, as witnessed by other damage / replacement items used.

Michael

Hello,

Wishing to ask the experienced members if anyone recognises the RH switchgear that was fitted to my 400?
There different wiring arrangements to the standard CB400 switchgear.

1. Starter button earths the Yellow / Red cable rather than connecting it to the black. No black in the loom.
2. Two additional cables White/yellow and a Yellow appear to go to the headlight switch, in addition to the normal cabling.

The bike's wiring was 'Modified' to remove all the starter interlocks and just use the start button to earth the starter solenoid coil.
White/yellow and a Yellow cables not used.

I an guessing that this is from a 750 or a 550?? Possibly a USA model??? Other parts on the bike have been from a USA model.

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Hello,
Working through the bike and checking what is missing using the parts list I have found the loom clip under the bottom yoke is not fitted. I assume from the parts list that there is a M8 threaded hole in the yoke for this to bolt to? This threaded hole missing from my yoke, it is an ‘American’ type for yoke as the steering lock hole is in the wrong place for the UK side mounted lock. Guess how I found that out! 
Am I correct expecting a threaded hole in the yoke? If I am correct and it was not used on the US version does anyone know how they supports the loom?

Thanks for peoples help to date.

Michael

Hi All,

On stripping the starter motor to check brushes I find its rather well 'Oiled'!
The front oil seal has worn and must be letting in oil from main engine casing.
PO (one of them!) has stripped it and fitted new brushes no that long ago, but now the brush gear is full of stickly gunk.

So has anyone changed this seal and can you suggest a source?

Trying to measure in situ I get 24 OD, 6 or 7 think and the shalf measures 13.46.
Plenty of 13x24x7 oil seal about but concerned they will be tight on the shalf.

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