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Messages - AndyD
1
« on: February 05, 2026, 02:09:00 PM »
Hi Grewth, One that certainly used to be pretty good was the GS Resources US site but I haven't been there for quite a while. Was very good when I was working on the GS1000 and GSX1100 with lots of guys who had vast experience and knowledge and quite a bit of useful technical downloads etc. Cheers, Andy https://www.thegsresources.com/
2
« on: December 05, 2025, 12:11:18 PM »
Hi all,
Think I've finally got to the bottom of the fork leg mystery.
I really couldn't imagine that someone had somehow removed the inside part of the damper but it looks like that was definitely the case.
After much searching it proved impossible to find a pair of replacement used legs in decent condition so stretched the credit card and ordered up new TNK ones.
Photo hopefully shows new versus old ones - new ones with the internal in place.
I can only assume the PO had a major issue with the forks and butchered the legs in desperation / anger!
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
A few small parts were also missing from the dampers so CMSNL did further damage to the home finances.
Just got to get the two bottom bolts and washers sorted now and can get on with rebuild.
Cheers,
Andy
3
« on: October 20, 2025, 07:18:55 PM »
Brilliant thanks Murf,
That looks / sounds exactly as I'd expect so I'm pretty convinced that the inside bit has been removed - absolutely no idea why anyone would do that or how easy it is but I can't see any alternative.
Frustrating as the bike is very low mileage and original with just a bit too much patina (rust) on the frame so I'd hoped for a quick tidy up and get her up and running without huge expense.
Looks like aftermarket stanchions are the only option so have to punish the credit card and move on!
Cheers,
Andy
4
« on: October 20, 2025, 02:28:05 PM »
Thanks Murf,
The forks are 39mm with the anti-dive assy so I guess might be different to the CBX ones.
After another exhausting (boring!) Google I finally found a picture of the end of a standard fork tube.
Bizarrely it does look like the PO may have somehow removed the internal end bit inside the tube that retains the damper
[ Guests cannot view attachments ] is the picture of an original NOS one
[ Guests cannot view attachments ] is how mine look
No idea why or even how they would have removed the internal bit but it would explain why it feels / looks wrong as they are.
More hunting now to try and track down some replacement fork parts I guess!
Cheers,
Andy
5
« on: October 20, 2025, 11:57:20 AM »
The bottom bush sits in a recess in the fork tube so is positively retained - it's a split bush so once inside the tube it's closed.
However my idea that maybe that would prevent the tube coming up too far isn't right as the top bush is right at the top of the fork leg so this would only prevent the tube coming out very late, so the damper could clear the base of the fork tube by this stage.
I'll try and Google some pictures of the inside of a fork tube for this model as I really can't get my head around it at the moment and just wonder if maybe there was something in the fork tube that's been removed somehow and lost - would be very odd but i can't currently think of anything else!
Cheers,
Andy
6
« on: October 19, 2025, 12:10:21 PM »
Hi Bryan,
I had another closer look at the parts and also Googled images etc. and I think part 17 is in the right place in the bottom of the slider as the hole through it is too small to slide up over the damper assy.
Like you I can't see what would stop the damper pulling straight through which is what's thrown me - every other fork tube I'm familiar with has something at the base which only allows the damper assy to come out through the top of the tube.
Looking at the fork tube parts online at CMSNL / Ebay there doesn't seem to be anything at the bottom of the tube to retain the damper.
The only other thing that could keep it all together maybe is the top fork bush which is then retained by the ring and circlip up by the fork seal.
I'll try a quick assembly this afternoon and see if that works as I can't think of anything else so far.
Cheers,
Andy
7
« on: October 19, 2025, 10:57:26 AM »
Thanks Bryan,
It's odd but the FD version doesn't seem to appear in a lot of parts lists etc. for some reason.
The FC is very similar and luckily I've also got the microfiche for the FD so have scanned that in which is really useful.
I think I might have worked out what's wrong after a closer look this morning.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
It looks like part 17 should be fixed in the bottom of the fork tube (pt 7) but it looks like it's actually stuck in the bottom of the fork case (pt 14).
This means that the damper (pt 23 etc) can just pull straight through the tube and nothing holds the tube and case together if that makes sense.
I'll try and get one out later and see if I'm right - never seen this before and always thought that part was 'fixed' inside the fork tube somehow, but maybe it's just just pressed and can come apart with force.
I think the PO maybe just forced / abused the fork assembly until something gave way and came apart, then couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go back together and partly / loosely reassembled it.
Hopefully nothing is damaged
Cheers,
Andy
8
« on: October 19, 2025, 10:43:27 AM »
Hi Dave,
Hope you're doing OK.
Yes, that's the 900 sat in the corner waiting patiently for some attention!
Pretty well finished the CJ360T, just needs tweaks and tyres to be roadworthy.
Spent some time doing the XT250 which is also now complete and I really need to get it out on the road to run in as it had a rebore and full rebuild after finding endless bodges and damage on close inspection.
Really should catch up some time if you're around.
Cheers,
Andy
9
« on: October 18, 2025, 10:53:48 AM »
Hi Bryan,
Spent a happy few hours scanning the microfiche in the other day so happily now have full parts details and diagrams for the bike.
I've worked out the parts generally and know what's missing but the bit I couldn't fathom was what if anything retained the internal damper assy.
On other bikes I've worked on this could only be removed from the top of the forks - once slid down inside it would be trapped at the bottom and then the damper is bolted to the underside of the fork leg with an allen key bolt.
Here I can slide the assy in and out top and bottom which seems odd.
I'm not sure if this is correct or if something is wrong with the parts.
Cheers,
Andy
10
« on: October 18, 2025, 09:55:50 AM »
Hi,
Been away from the bikes for a while but trying to tidy up a few projects to at least stop them perishing slowly through neglect!
First up is a CB900FD from 1983 which I bought many years ago from the original owner that has been standing around since about 1989.
The PO had stripped the forks for some reason he couldn't quite remember, failed to fix whatever was wrong and loosely reassembled them to the bike before laying it up for a very long rest.
Now I've finally got the bike on the ramp and got it all apart again it's a bit mysterious - some parts missing, some wrongly assembled and some a bit damaged.
I think I've figured out most of the issues but what I can't grasp is that the internal damper assy isn't held inside the fork stanchion in any way - all other bikes I've worked on you could only pull this out through the top but here it can slide right out either end.
Not sure if the stanchions are wrong or I'm missing something so wondered if anyone had any ideas / experience?
Cheers,
Andy
11
« on: December 21, 2024, 01:42:15 PM »
Dave,
Is it 1.25 - the Honda tool seems to show maybe 1.5 pitch.
If any help I can see if I've got any fiches for the TL125 in the pile in the garage - haven't used any or the scanner for a while but may still work with a bit of persuasion.
Cheers,
Andy
12
« on: December 21, 2024, 09:17:22 AM »
[ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Here are the pages in image form - linked to pdf in last post so probably doesn't work (must get a grip of all this IT stuff one day!).
Cheers,
Andy
13
« on: December 21, 2024, 09:14:02 AM »
Dave,
Probably too late but attached is the section on the puller tool from the Honda Common Tool Manual.
I scanned the full manual for Ash quite some time ago so may be in the archive as well.
Hope you've got it sorted or if not that this may help.
Cheers,
Andy [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
14
« on: December 17, 2024, 11:52:04 AM »
I've had the larger version of the tumbler for a few years and it's certainly not a perfect answer but I have found it very good at cleaning up brackets and fixings if given enough time.
Also found that adding the tumbler liquid seems to help the process.
Seems to work brilliantly on flatter surfaces - brackets, large bolts, washers etc., less so on intricate smaller parts but that mat be down to the media type / size.
I've left them in for a good 6 or 8 hours and quite happy with the results - always dubious about leaving something running overnight but may give it a go one day when feeling brave.
Size of the media makes a big difference - I found that recessed bolt heads etc. weren't good but then got some much smaller cones and results were then much better - downside being they easily get stuck in any nuts or recesses etc.
Haven't tried many other types of media yet but I have got a bag of walnut shell for polishing and some fine glass blasting stuff which may be good for more aggressive work (but not great for the tumbler itself!).
Cheers,
Andy
15
« on: September 05, 2024, 11:43:51 AM »
You're right Bryan, it's the same seal on both bikes.
I'm not sure if the 400 also used the oil passage through the seal like the CJ but guess it would if it's the same part.
It always amazes me how poor some of these pattern parts are either in accuracy of manufacture or simply not being anything like the correct part.
Of course most sellers don't know or care so just copy the details over from the manufacturer no matter how inaccurate (or badly written).
Dave - thanks, yes this is the first one rebuilt a while ago, now going through the first round of fixing problems and leaks etc. after a bit of running.
Oil leak was a pain being a lot of work for a small part and afterwards nothing really to show for it but can't be avoided.
A couple of final bits to sort / tidy and she should be finished at last (until the next leak / noise / problem pops up of course).
Also replaced the steering head bearings as I wasn't happy with the roller ones I originally used - gone back to original ballbearings for top and now assembly feels much better.
Got the CJ360T rebuilt as well a while ago but only to a more 'lived-in' standard, ready to fill with oil and petrol and see if she runs well.
I'd put it on the backburner while trying to 'quickly' get the XT250 on the road as initially hoped this would be a simple tidy-up.
Of course that changed on closer inspection and has been fully stripped and rebuilt and still needs a few bits sorting but nearly there.
She'd had a really hard life and the PO had repaired / bodged just about every part of the bike and engine so has been a pretty extensive mechanical rebuild.
To be fair I can't complain too much as I happily remember some very interesting 'field repairs' as we called them back in the day which would horrify anyone digging up one of our old bikes now!
Cheers,
Andy
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