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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
1
« on: August 11, 2026, 09:21:24 AM »
I agree 100% with Ken, those plastic wheels are fantastic. A couple of years ago I dropped a teaspoon in our our sink waste disposal unit. When I recovered the spoon that was part of a set, it was all chewed on the back of the spoon end.
Last year I decided to try and dull the sharp edges and clean up the spoon using 80 grit to remove the deep marks, then 400, then finished off with 1000 wheels. Now out of the set it takes me a while to find that spoon, it has turned out that good. If I get bored I might try to improve it even more one day.
2
« on: August 10, 2026, 10:18:43 PM »
I think I read on here, for older riders it's not just the Honda of our youth that drives us to ride into old age, its also the knowledge that we are stradling a mobile branch of the Digitas Clinic, that thought keeps us focused and risk averse.
3
« on: August 10, 2026, 09:16:39 PM »
No 70 mph limit back then either.
4
« on: August 10, 2026, 08:38:24 PM »
Your post has reminded me of when I used to collect used Vauxhall's from Luton employers (Circa 1965) who were allowed to buy two cars a year at a big discount. The Vauxhall dealers would buy these low mileage cars from the employers when they were 6-12 months old, everyone in the chain made a tidy profit.
Frequently on the Luton run we would see new Bedfords Bus Chassis on the M1 presumably on their way to coachbuilders. They had a makeshift drivers seat with a plywood board in front & behind. The drivers wore goggles to keep the insects out of their eyes. No windscreens so not a nice job when it was cold or raining.
5
« on: August 10, 2026, 06:39:15 PM »
I cleaned my 500 finned front pipe clamps, using Kens plastic wheels, the castings are full of holes, hence why they rust. I settled silver for VHT paint to finish them off.
I have a new set that came with my 500 Delkevic 4 into 4 silencers that I never used, PM me if you are interested in buying them. They are chromed steel, they look much better than my 500 originals, for complicated reasons I never used them.
6
« on: August 09, 2026, 09:32:51 PM »
The bit we don't mention is how many hours it takes to get a really good finish.
I did a great polishing job on a side casing a while back, it just had one small bit I wasn't happy with. I should have left it as it was, instead I buffed it for a final finish only to make it worse.
It took me several hours to get near where it was, now I'm happy with less than perfection, that will do. Ken is on another level, respect.👍
8
« on: August 09, 2026, 05:14:02 PM »
I can't see your listing for the 550F2 in the link you posted, either way it looks as if they have possibly sent the wrong ones as F2 & K3 are not the same.
If you fit the inner pair only for cylinders 2 & 3 how does it look, are the 4 carb bodies the same part number?
9
« on: August 09, 2026, 03:47:55 PM »
House carpet cleaner like Whoosh would do the same I suspect.
10
« on: August 09, 2026, 03:19:16 PM »
You can buy car carpet cleaner in an aerosol. You spray it on, let it soak in, then wipe with a clean dry mutton cloth. It will not remove all the yellowing but it will remove grease, dirt etc.
11
« on: August 09, 2026, 01:00:40 PM »
This is purely anecdotal evidence, it appears early original Haynes Bike Manuals were not too bad, later re-printed ones have grainy photos. On later model bikes, post 1980 they are nothing like as thorough or detailed.
When I bought my Superdream it came with two Haynes Manuals, edition 540, one has fair quality photos, the other has poor contrast ones, a drop on actual print quality, doubt it's a fake, who knows.
12
« on: August 09, 2026, 12:10:31 PM »
They moved to bigger premises on Bold Lane, Derby in the early 1960's. Thats my father Reg on the left in the Motor Trders Jacket. PXL_20231204_214043501 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
13
« on: August 09, 2026, 12:03:16 PM »
For anyone who knows the Derby area this was the garage in Mickleover. Photo Year Unknown 1956? # Mickleover circa 1958 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
14
« on: August 09, 2026, 11:55:14 AM »
I grew up in a motor trade environment, my late father did his apprenticeship at RR Crewe working mainly on Bentleys. After completing his apprenticeship he teamed up with a fellow RR employee to service and repair cars in the evenings and weekends when they both were based at RR Derby in the mid 1950s. I'm talking here about post WW2 and the rapid growth in private car ownership that took off in the 1955-65 period.
I'm not certain about the year, sometimes around 1954/5 my dad Reg and his mate Eric opened up a garage locally in Mickleover to sell used Vauxhall's with a workshop and body shop facilities. The man with the money was Eric who inherited substantial weather on the death of his father. The business expanded to bigger premises in Derby, they eventually became Vauxhall, Opel & Mercedes main dealers. Eric sold the dealership retiring to Spain in his mid forties.
I had access to factory dealership workshop manuals via my father, older manuals ended up in our garage when newer issues were released. This access to decent printed manuals led me to seek out manufacturers manuals when I bought my first Japanese car a MK1 MR2. The manuals were expensive at about £60 each, even worse there was a manual for the engine, bodywork & electrical section so a set was well over £120 with VAT. Haynes manuals appeared to be only available on older models, don't know if that was copyright issues or what My Haynes Manual for a Vauxhall Cavalier MK2 was brilliant, it was a thorough and detailed manual with great photos and text links to each photo. A local self employed Technical Photographer (ex RR) John Colley did a lot of work for the Haynes family as the Haynes Manuals became quite successful.
I was told by John Colley that he parted ways with Haynes work when they were cost cutting, probably after the company changed ownership. What I have noticed is the Haynes Manuals seem to have lost a lot of detail especially when they combine models in one manual. That said they are a great starting point.
15
« on: August 09, 2026, 11:13:14 AM »
I know the words "Dwell Angle" I have difficulty in understanding how it translates in terms of points gap & timing outcome. In my head I've thought that whilst static timing is the basic set up to get the engine timing as close to correct as possible statically, the reality is that the timing might be slightly different when the engine is running. This concept is why I've always seen dynamic timing as a a fine tune potential improvement with the added bonus as has been pointed out that you can also check the advancer is working.
I don't mean to Dwell on the issue (pun intended) but I've no understanding of what Dwell Angle really means in terms of spark delivery, I only know it matters.
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