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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
1
« on: July 14, 2026, 08:46:34 PM »
If you look at this item (156396720375) made by Max Haywood, he was a member here, he will make you a bespoke spacer if you know the width you need at a sensible price
He says in his listing he can make what you need, tell him you are a sohc member,
2
« on: July 14, 2026, 07:42:08 PM »
During my teenage years I could not afford leathers, it was jeans & Wincheater, I wore a cheap open face helmet on runs over 20 miles, goggles that steamed up at traffic lights.
When I could afford leathers, decent gloves,proper boots etc they were really heavy, the ritual of putting on all that armour was very restrictive and off putting for short journeys.
3
« on: July 13, 2026, 05:05:55 PM »
Definitely not two spacers on the same side on my 500..
Right side is a wide spacer, left side a shorter one.
I found the parts book a good source of checking assembly order.
IIRC the left side spacer should be in the parts book showing the parts for the left side of the drive hub, bearings any seals etc.
Your left side spacer looks as though it's either the wrong one or fitted the wrong way round, difficult to tell from the photo.
My 500 had a wrong sized spacer fitted, an ex-member here Max made me a set in SS of the correct width, I did have the sizes in an old email - now deleted.
If you get stuck PM me and I will give you Max's email address.
4
« on: July 10, 2026, 12:25:27 PM »
Welcome to the sohc community Dave, lots of good tips & advice to be found here.
Take my advice with a pinch of scepticism as I'm getting on a bit age wise.
5
« on: July 08, 2026, 09:33:16 AM »
Should we not also consider the temperature of the oil and it's viscosity at start up, a critical time for the engine. I certainly would not want 20w50 in a cold engine in the winter. (Perhaps you don't ride in winter?)
At one time you could buy pre-oilers for many cars, a servo pumped oil giving full oil pressure before you started the engine.
6
« on: July 08, 2026, 08:06:57 AM »
Regarding the Honda, I agree with that, Ted. But on a well used oil pump and main bearings (and other tollerances), does that still hold true?
Honda itself said 20W50 is fine.
I don't know the answer to that question, fluid dynamics was never my strong point, I've had lecturers tell me to think of pressure as Voltage, flow rated as Amps, resistance is a tricky one that has many variables depending on the fluid involved. A thin film of good oil might be better than a thicker film of mineral oil. Interestingly the development of synthetic oil was initially based on longer service intervals. One issue was the build up of acidic waste in the oil from sulphates iirc. The game changer was to add micronised chalk to the oil to neutralise the acid build up.
7
« on: July 07, 2026, 10:52:40 PM »
I suspect that its complicated in that, as viscocity increases the flow rate decreases.
A similay grade synthetic oil would have less resistance but increased flow rate.
The corollary of that is a drop in pressure soley by the use of a thinner oil actually increases the amount of lubrication.
My memory of Jaguar & Mercedes engines from the 1960's is that they ran on much lower oil pressures than the likes of BL.
When I ran an old Nissan Diesel 2.7 4 cylinder 4x4 the Nissan Owners Club were of the view that Mineral oil was best, I found that using fully synthetic engine oil of the same grade (10W/40)actually made the engine much quiter without any noticable loss of oil between services.
8
« on: July 07, 2026, 08:27:35 PM »
Great variety of photos Skoti, thanks for sharing.👍
9
« on: July 05, 2026, 04:32:23 PM »
It's down to personal choice in the end, even without the groove on the valve guide it would probably stay in place like it has.
You could just use the old ones, I discussed this with my brother in law, he like me thinks they are a good idea as did the PO who had them fitted or fitted them himself.
10
« on: July 04, 2026, 03:37:23 PM »
Thanks Ted, I wasn’t sure if it was a must or must not do type of thing. That puts my mind at rest.
The early basic BMC A series engines had no valve stem seals. Later tuned versions of the engine, Cooper S, MG etc had valve stem seals. As well as the cost of fitting valve stem seals early versions soon went hard, improvement in seal materials helped. As Bryan had said the outer part of the stem seals is designed to fit in a groove on the valve guide, do your guides have a retaining groove?
11
« on: July 04, 2026, 01:29:26 PM »
Valve stem seals on the inlet valves help reduce oil consumption, the vacuum on the inlet stroke tends to suck oil in past the guides, this can lead to excessive carbon build up on the valve.
I'm a fan of valve seals 👍
12
« on: July 04, 2026, 08:05:50 AM »
As you will know the specially shaped washer is also a basic wear indicator,, the felt washer is to help keep out dust and water. Personally I think you should fit them both.
It's a fiddly job made difficult as the brake lever splines will be tight from the clamping of the bolt, worse if overtightened in the past. I would ensure the splines are clean on the shaft, rust free.
As you will have found out as you slide it in place the shaft moves into the hub. I had one of those tools that is like a screwdriver except it's a pointed tapered end. I was able to push the tapered point into clamp bolt hole and this pulls the shaft out of the hub as the taper meets the bolt recess part of the shaft.
It might help to ease open the lever arm if it's a very tight fit in the shaft.
If they are available a new lever arm might be needed if it's been continually overtightened in the past,.
13
« on: July 02, 2026, 09:16:59 PM »
I used Allendale Carb Cleaner, recommended by a member.
14
« on: July 02, 2026, 02:19:01 PM »
I don't know what that means and I'm an IT manager. 
My bad it's what Flickr call a BBCode to enable photo sharing.
15
« on: July 02, 2026, 02:14:08 PM »
If I remember correctly you need to remove the whole brake lever pivot & shaft to fit the spring as it sits on the inside of the frame.
Others will advise if you can access it without removing the rear swing arm.
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