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Messages - deltarider
1
« on: August 15, 2026, 11:54:44 AM »
The good news is that within a fraction of a second your engine already makes 3000RPM and IGN is fully advanced.
2
« on: August 15, 2026, 11:50:30 AM »
Do contactbreaker 2+3 connectors accidently make contact to the plate? Check carefully that these forked connectors are well isolated from the plate.
3
« on: August 15, 2026, 06:17:38 AM »
This whole 'sloppy springs' thing is another made up or should I say exaggerated problem. As far as I remember it has been more a CB750 thing. Yes, they can stretch overtime, but heat annealing? Really, at such low temperatures? Here's what you can do if you do suspect weak springs, which can cause a bit of fluttering idle. A stroboscope will help you determining it. But be aware that a fluttering idle can have more causes! When fully advanced, there's no problem and that's where your bike is most of the time. If you have the advancer out, press lightly with your finger sideways to the spring to estimate the play. If you find them too sloppy, you can tweak the loop which goes around the post a bit. This after you have lifted the cam ofcourse to relax the springs (see pics). I wouldn't experiment with an advance taking place in higher RPMs than Honda has prescribed. So far I have not read one post in the international forum saying that that has lead to an improvement, not one, not on a CB500/550. Realise that springs on a TEC and a Hitachi advancer differ in length.
4
« on: August 13, 2026, 12:36:28 PM »
My Peugeot 504 GL had those wonderful trapeziumshaped Cibié headlamps. Never had better. Guess what US legislators forced Peugeot to do. Peugeot had to replace them by inferior sealed beams! But hey, you now had 4 lights and 4 is more than 2 right?! 
5
« on: August 13, 2026, 08:24:37 AM »
My CB500K2-ED came with a Hella H4 reflector, model: 1A6 002 395-071. What I particularly like, is that the lens is flat, which gives your bike a serious and classic look. It has an extra Ba9s socket for a position light. It is not an expensive one and back then was also fitted on the VW Golf in Europe. Still available and cheap.
Best DRL in my opinion is a not too bright yellowish headlight like in the pic. European research has established yellow is best noticed. The CB550K3 in France had the best. It came with a yellow Phlips 60/55 Watts H4, Honda partnumber: 34901-371-621 which according to CMSNL is on 185 other Honda models. Price a bit hefty: € 37,46 but might be cheaper in France.
6
« on: August 12, 2026, 03:32:57 PM »
60/55 Watt. Best in the market is the Philips Extreme Vision Moto or its predecessor the Vision Plus. Osram Nightbreaker is also good. Best LED is the expensive Osram Night Breaker Led Pro, but I don't know if there is enough space in the bucket.
Or if you worry about that not existent problem and provided your reflector has a Ba9s socket you can opt for what I have suggested our friends across the pond.
That 'park light' aka 'city light' or 'pilot light' or 'position' light has little use, but... can be made useful. This is what I tried out for you guys.
In the headlamp bucket I disconnected the brown PLUS wire from the position light and replaced it by a black wire to a spare black connector. Yes, there are.
I then put a switch in the green MINUS wire to the position light. I can now bring on the position light without the tail- and instrument lights. The added switch is hidden in between the speedo- and the tachometer, where it is hardly seen, so the classic looks of my bike are preserved.
In the headlight reflector I replaced the OEM Ba9s 4 Watts position light bulb by a dito 21 Watts halogen one (see pic), which you can now use as DRL. The bulb is a bit yellowish which is better noticed and highlights you're a biker.
During the day you can switch to your new DRL. All the rest remains off. Saves fuel and extends lifespan of bulbs. Realise that especially the little instrument lightbulbs do not live long and it is quite a hassle to replace them. With the taillight off, brakelight will be better noticed. The same goes for high beam flashes when you slide the PA switch. On entering a tunnel you simply slide the stock RH switch from . to 'P', which adds tail- and instrument lights. Exiting the tunnel you slide the switch back to ..
The rest remains the same, so when darkness falls, just sliding the standard switch to 'H' (headlight) brings on the 60/55 Watts H4 and switch off the DRL (or leave it on).
The arrangement is simple and the cost minimal. Some prefer a LED for that Ba9s socket. Problem is I have not seen a Ba9s LED that spreads its light as nice as a halogen bulb. The ones I have seen are just disappointing dots (see pics).
7
« on: August 12, 2026, 01:28:42 PM »
That is a US sealed beam unit as used on cars and the pilot bulb is not required there so there is no proper fitting, you can fit any 7 inch light and go Halogen(usually H4 bulb) BUT , no matter what Delta says, you need to keep the revs up to charge the battery, you could also fit a standard 500 or 750 unit but not 400
Sir, according to my parts list even the CB550K3 model for UK had the 60/55 Watts H4. I myself never had a problem with H4, 3 Ohm coils and homebuilt transistorized ignition. In the riders reports in my archives - in total 40 times around the globe by the respondents - nobody reported a problem. It has never been a subject in the French nor in the German forum. It is a non existent made-up problem that nobody here knows of. Creating problems has always been a good strategy to profile yourself as expert. You can even sell books with it. But... it may have been become a problem since people began more tinkering their bikes - prolonged idling - than using the bike, it was meant for: riding. The mere idea that Honda wouldn't have been capable of fitting an adequate charging... You disappoint me. A simple calculation - will tell you the charging system is more than adequate. And I have pointed out more than once it is up to the rider.
8
« on: August 10, 2026, 10:45:42 AM »
Has anyone had the main fuse blow?
O, yes, over 46 years a couple of times, but not any more since I've made it a habit at the start of the season to clean the ends of the main fuse and the clips that are holding it. If these contacts are not clean or are even slightly oxidised, under circumstances the fuse will blow. Always have a spare with you but do not position it before you have carefully inspected cq cleaned its ends and the clips. The 5A (taillight) and the 7A (headlamp) are still the ones the bike got on 1976 at the assembly line. In spite of a 60/55 Watts H4, 3 ohm coils in combination with a transistorized ignition, 15A has always served me.
9
« on: August 08, 2026, 11:36:59 AM »
Yeah, that boss of the motorcycle business eventually got rid of his CB550K3 because he never had the time to do it. In the past I've known a guy who had modified his CB500 to a 4-valve per cylinder one and had raced it.
10
« on: August 06, 2026, 02:39:27 PM »
Daichi used to sell a complete plate as well back in the 70's, but they were decent parts then
Also to my knowledge. Dunno what has happened afterwards. BTW, is this about a CB400F? Then better consult the partlists or CMSNL. I'm still not sure if it was one size fits all. Didn't the CB350F/400F have -333- in the middle of the partsnumbers concerned?
11
« on: August 06, 2026, 02:33:49 PM »
That feels wrong to me.
Well... if it was is about a CB550K3 or -K4 with these PD carbs... The boss of a motorcycle business nearby had a CB550K3 he still hadn't found the time to work on. He had in mind to replace the carbs by... fuel injection. LOL
13
« on: August 05, 2026, 03:51:18 PM »
Best mechanics in the Netherlands. I've corrected.
The addition about volts, amps and resistances was just an extra. Just to inform folks not to expect just anything to be better when it is analogue cq digital. It's just some extra information based on years long experience that I like to share. Anything against communicating experience, Oddjob?
14
« on: August 05, 2026, 03:19:43 PM »
[...] Most people don’t own a dwell meter anyway. Really wish you’d stop recommending stuff, you have absolutely no practical experience to base it on after never being in the trade and tbh most of it is wrong anyway. I've been working with dwell- and multimeters since mid 80s, so I have ample experience. The ANWB (the Dutch AA (with the best mechanics in the Netherlands)) had published a test of equipment in the market. Back then all these meters were analogue. In general they were not very good in measuring amps and resistances. They were all good if not excellent in reading volts, tach and dwell. I've never said anyone should have a dwell meter. All I've said in the international forum: if you need to buy a multimeter then make it an automotive one. The extra cost is neglectable. Based on my experience I prefer analogue meters for reading volts (engine running!), dwell and tach. Reading a dial is intuitive and sooo much easier than hectic changing digits that your brain needs to interpret. For volts (engine off!), resistances and amps I prefer digital. My old analogue meter came out best of the test. Swiss made, it was extremely accurate and the big scale shows even the smallest increments. A joy to use. Anyone is free to test it out for themselves, Oddjob.
15
« on: August 05, 2026, 02:55:58 PM »
What exactly are foresaid heels made of. Trespa?
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