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Topics - nairb
1
« on: May 20, 2026, 03:50:03 AM »
I have been trying to find if Honda ever said what the fuel height should be in the carbs of a CB550 K3.
Honda does say how far the float should dangle down .... 22mm I think.
But on my KZ750 twin I use a clear tube stuck in the bottom of the carb bowl and this gives the actual fuel height, As shown in the pic below.
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And Kawasaki says what the fuel level lines up with. All very helpful.
Does anybody know if honda ever did this for the 550 K3. I now need to check the float heights .... It would be interesting to try this with the carbs still on the bike.
Ta
Nairb
2
« on: December 17, 2025, 02:09:58 AM »
These bolts :- All 5 of them. Hex and M6.
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Anybody know what the torque values might be. I looked in the Clymer manual and the Honda CB450 Factory Service Manual, but missed them if they were there.
I did find a spreadsheet with many useful torque values for much of the bike/frame. But not found a consistent value.
Ta
Nairb
3
« on: February 09, 2025, 08:41:05 PM »
My old tin of general purpose grease (Duckhams LB10) has almost been used up...... Before I rush out and order a new tin of something greasy, I thought I might ask if there is a wonderful new product that has replaced the traditional LB10.
I do already have a tube of Graphited grease for "brake cables" and transmission chains. Little used. And some copper grease.
Just wondering.....
4
« on: January 29, 2025, 10:09:52 AM »
These yellow brick batteries. The name begins with a "M". I always thought they were longer lasting than some other/cheaper brands and worked well with the basic charging systems on the older bikes.
I have had 2 of these batteries start to fail or not deliver the full power. They are both about 2 years old. Maybe there is an issue on the bikes they are on. Maybe......
Has anybody else noticed any change in the quality of these batteries. I am needing one for the re5m and at 130+ quid it's not the cheap option.
ta
nairb
5
« on: January 28, 2025, 07:18:35 PM »
The old K3 has sat for a couple of months and now gives the "click" from the starter relay. Battery is fully charged. Sometimes it will work, but not always.
So..... I was going to take the Solenoid off and take it apart and smear some grease on the sticking bits. I have done this on the gt750, or was it the Yamaha. Anyway, one of the other bikes and it fixed the problem.
But having taken the Solenoid off the K3, I am not sure I should remove the 2 screws. It looks like a factory sealed unit.
Are these things serviceable?. I should check the voltage from the starter switch(handlebar) first, I guess to make sure at least 12v is getting thru.
Ta
Nairb
6
« on: January 13, 2025, 01:28:48 AM »
I have had this cb550k3 from new......... so know its history. The front end seems to be a bit spongy. So I looked up the free spring lengths on the fork springs. Then took one of the springs out and checked it.
The numbers for the spring length varied a bit from the various manuals. From 443.5mm or 425.
Mine turned out to be 470mm. Which was a surprise.
The spring :-
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Don't suppose anybody has checked their forks and has a spring length. Maybe a thicker fork oil might help??.
I just thought they were getting a bit old after 45k miles
Ta
Nairb
7
« on: December 28, 2024, 10:07:22 PM »
For ages, I have been running the cb550k3 without the close throttle cable. So finally I purchased one from DS and spent an hr or so trying to fit it. But it would not fit. So I returned it and purchased another one with the same p/n from a different supplier.
Spent another hr trying to fit it. The problem was the same as the cable from DS. The inner cable was just to short by about 8-10mm.
Here is a pic of the cables fitted to my spare set of 550 carbs which I use for bits when necessary.
I have had the bike from NEW so know its history well.
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So it turns out I need a close cable that has a centre cable that is about 8-10mm longer. Or the outer cable is too long.
Anybody else had this problem. I wondered if some parts of this bike came off an F1 or F2 or an earlier cb550.
Ta
Nairb
8
« on: December 21, 2024, 08:18:20 AM »
Rather sadly, I have to take the cl450 engine apart. I hate taking a factory finish engine apart, but it needs to be investigated. It's those bits that have dropped out the bottom during an oil change which has made this necessary.
I thought I would be able to get away with leaving the cam chain in one piece. I have done this with the cb550 and the cb360 (I think). 2-stroke engines are so simple..... (except the re5).
So, the day has arrived when I finally need to invest in a cam chain splitter.
Anybody found one on the bayE which is suitable. I will get a new cam chain from DS anyway, so I could cut it off if necessary.
Can a splitter also be used to put the chain rivet in, on a new chain. I suppose that's a different tool.
I dont want to use a split link on a cam chain.!!
Ta Nairb
10
« on: November 20, 2024, 10:41:02 AM »
The original chain guard decal (pic below) has become a bit worn with age.
The only ones I can find are the inverse colour of the original. Black where the silver is and silver where it's black.
The original :-
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Anybody found an original one.
Ta
Nairb
12
« on: November 09, 2024, 08:55:11 PM »
A simple question..... which way does the bolt that holds the timing advance unit on to the front camshaft, Undo.
Looks to be the normal way - spanner anti-clockwise.
See pic below
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The Clymer manual does not seem to say. I would rather get it right.
Ta
Nairb
13
« on: October 06, 2024, 02:47:33 AM »
So I purchased a spanking new set of Michelin "road classic" tyres. 3.25x19 and 4.00x18 for a bike that has been waiting for new rubber for 5 or 6 years. It says they can be fitted with a tube.
I usually fit these by my self. I was surprised to find that there is no yellow/red dot on the tyre any more.
And searching about on the net, it appears these tyres are so perfect they dont need them.
So I fitted them....... with a tube. I then went to balance them.
The front tyre needed 60+ gram weights to get the wheel to be nearly balanced. Utter tosh.
Anybody else had this issue?. I will try to turn the fitted tyre on the rim and see if it helps. The old tyre had just one 10g balance weight.
Ta
Nairb
14
« on: July 16, 2024, 04:55:11 PM »
After a bit of research, I think one or other of the bearing retainers on the crank will need to be replaced after several chunks of metal came out when draining the engine oil.
The bearing retainers are shown in the following pic with red arrows.
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Before I start the engine pull down, I was wondering if I will need to get the crank re-built with the new bearing retainers.
I suspect it's the inner bearing retainers that are the problem. And the crank will need to be split to get at them
Ta
Nairb
15
« on: March 15, 2024, 04:09:08 AM »
So I need to get one of the speedo's recalibrated. Its showing 85mph+ at 70. I have put up with it for years but have decided to get it sorted.
Just wondering what is a good price for such a bit of work. The clock is in goodish order...... just a not so accurate.
It's off an **750.
Ta
Nairb
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