Honda-SOHC

Hey all

I got a throttle that is not returning fully. I inspected cables, throttle pipe etc. all with no problems. When I disconnect the cables from the carb, the carb still doesn't return fully to the idle screw stop. This makes me think that the return spring is the problem. If I open the throttle fully, it will snap fully back. But if I only open it 1/3, it will not snap all the way back.

My question is: Is there anything else that could cause this? Is there some screw I can have tightened too much in the carb rebuild, that will hinder the spring in doing its work? Could something else bind, or maybe a third thing? Most people on the forums says that its very unlikely that the spring is faulty. Although it does seem like that would be the exact problem in this case, I just wanna make sure there is nothing else Im missing, before I go looking for a replacement.

- Alex

Hey all

Does anyone know of a smaller tail light, that will fit the existing mounting point on the original fender (three or four holed) and has an OEM look?

I am replacing my old worn rear fender, and wanted to replace the tail light as well. I want an OEM look, but always found the whole rear end of a CB-XXX bike weirdly over dimensioned.

I am riding a CB550 F2 from 1977.

Thanks for any tips you can give me!

- Alex

Hey all

Chasing down a front brake leak. The bike has somewhat new steel braided brake lines. But I have a leak at the switch and all the way down at the caliber.

When looking at spare parts, I can see that by the switch, there is a stainless steel washer. Is that the only thing sealing this thing? No rubber or copper seals?

Also, by the caliper, it would seem I have a leak. The steel lines just screw directly into the caliper with no seal at all either. How can I fix a leak in that area? (see picture)

- Alex

Hey

I am buying this kit soon for my CB550F 1977. For the long bolts, I can choose between dome, full hex, nyloc or toothed flange. Which version would you guys recommend I go with? Which would be the most "correct" version?

https://www.zed-parts.com/product-page/honda-cb500-four-engine-mount-kit

- Alex

Hey all

Got alternative points on my bike right now, and having trouble setting the timing. Wanted to install new original Honda points, as I have heard that would be way better.

Am I correct in assuming that it is item number 3 and 4 on this page, and I should go for the item that DOESN'T say "Alternative part"?

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-european-direct-sales_model17122/partslist/E06.html

Hey all

Alright, I have a few remaining issues with my CB550 F2 from 1977 that I wanted to run by you guys for advice. I have a feeling some of it might be related. I recently did the complete maintenance cycle (cam chain, tappet adjustment, timing, carb sync), and the bike seems to run great when warm. I am idling on around 1000RPM. But these are the things I am experiencing:

1. It still takes some effort to start up. Not a lot, but I’ve been led to believe that even when cold, these things can start up by one press of the start button. I would like my bike to get there. Right now it still needs some time and effort from the start motor, coupled with choker and small twists of the throttle. When it starts, I also have to give it a little throttle to get it to settle. Without that throttle, the engine usually dies again. Can it be a bad battery? Not enough spark? Bad coils? Bad wiring? Low compression? I am not using original Honda points. The ones I use can be a little hard to set so the firing matches up exactly. I usually have to turn the points to the outer limits of the plate and make the points gap as closed as possible (around 0.25-0.3 mm). I’ve heard that I don’t have to do this with original Honda points. Can that have something to do with the starting of the engine? I would love to get my bike to this point, where it just starts up: https://youtu.be/2k8U4bKgMjg?t=49

2. When driving on the highway and de-accelerating, sometimes the engine just go dead. Have to use the start button, and it starts immediately, but I find it weird that the engine gets killed like that sometimes. I thought the maintenance cycles helped it somewhat, but I still experience it now and then. What can the reasons for this be? Running too rich? I tried turning out the idle screw to 1 3/4 instead of the factory 1 1/2. The bike still runs fine, and haven’t experienced the engine going out since, but want to make sure it can’t be anything else either.

I wonder if these two issues can be related?

Some things to note about the bike: The spark plugs were a bit black when I took them out recently to check compression, which is another reason I turned out the idle screw a 1/4 turn more. The bike seems to run normal on this setting as well, although I seem to hear some more clunking sounds from the engine. Is there any reason for this, or am I just imagining things? The plugs are fairly new (3 years old and haven’t run that far) - should I buy new ones? Also, I measured the compression to around 25-30 on each cylinder, which makes me believe that my meter is broken. It had the same reading before I completely restored the engine, and I have no problems hitting around 180kmph on the highway. Also it idles fine and all that, so it seems unlikely that my compression is that low. But I don’t know what it actually is. Need to get a new meter.

I feel like if I can fix the start issues and not have the engine die when going 120kmph and de-accelerating, the bike runs almost perfectly (to my knowledge anyways), so really eager to fix these things, but fix them correctly so the bike won’t take any longterm damage.

What do you guys think?

Hey all

Going for a longer ride in Southern Sweden, and am doing packing lists right now.

Can anyone advise a good set of tools to bring with me, that would allow me to do regular maintenance? I can think of some stuff myself, but wanna make sure I get all the tips and tricks I can get, and don't forget anything important