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Messages - Laverda Dave
1
« on: July 10, 2026, 06:37:08 PM »
Welcome to the forum Dave. I also have a K6 (engine, in a Rickman frame...... somewhere!).
Being a Dave you are probably busy thinking about joining the other Dave's and getting a 400/4, a yellow one (others on here will know why it has to be yellow) because that's what Dave's do🙂.
2
« on: July 10, 2026, 06:33:13 PM »
😂 A must have.
Do they make them for 10mm spanners as well!
3
« on: July 05, 2026, 09:59:00 PM »
Here you go Rich, try this UK based company. This is a post I put up a while ago: https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/board,117.0.htmlIf you do use them can you mention you got their details from this forum, who knows they may wish to become a sponsor 👍 Dave
4
« on: July 05, 2026, 08:27:00 PM »
Just caught up with this thread. Very interesting Nigel. Starting spark plugs off in an old thread can be a bit fraught especially when they are deep set and at an angle. I tend to use my fingers (or a length of rubber tube on the end of the plug) to get a feel for the plug starting in the thread before using a socket.
5
« on: July 05, 2026, 08:22:28 PM »
I remember when the VJMC introduced a rule that any bike entered into the concorse had to be ridden around the arena to prove it had engine internals! This was after a number of years of trailer queens taking first place and then loaded back on a trailer never to be heard!
I used to attend the rally every year but stopped going in the early 2000’s as it was the same show every year and unless you were camping and able to enjoy the clubhouse there wasn't really much there apart from a few expensive traders.
It would have been a nice idea if they had an organised run out during the rally as the Laverda club do
6
« on: July 05, 2026, 08:13:52 PM »
That's a great trip to make Julie👍. I did the Stevlio Pass on the Jota a few years ago on my way to Bragenza, absolutely awesome. I did a similar trip to Switzerland a couple of years later on my Triumph ST1050 and warped the front discs on the decent! The Black Forrest is a hidden gem of a place to visit 👍
7
« on: July 03, 2026, 10:48:16 PM »
That's really bad, is this from Brooks Johnny? Not a good advert for whoever did them. Philpotts use very heavy duty cardboard tubes with plastic end caps that are duct taped to the cardboard tubes to send them back and certainly no biscuits!
8
« on: July 03, 2026, 10:36:26 PM »
Allendale for me as recommended by Ted (and originally by Ash).
They do a range of products for different ultrasonic applications Johnny and worth a look.
I made a local jewellers eye water a few years ago when I told him I'd put my 20 year old Citizen watch in my ultrasonic cleaner because it was so gunked up (it was safe to 50mtrs according to the dial!). It came up like new and still works fine, it was one of the original eco drives👍. Citizen watches are like an old Honda, will go on forever if used daily🙂
9
« on: July 03, 2026, 07:00:17 PM »
100% in agreement with Ken on the rubber tubing, that spring really does dig into the paint.
Before you remove the brake pedal George make sure you can see the dot mark on the shaft and the corresponding one on the brake pedal. If you can't see one mark it yourself otherwise you'll be taking the pedal on and off trying to find it's best position for your foot!
10
« on: June 29, 2026, 03:26:13 PM »
I'll have the Sunbeam please John👍
11
« on: June 28, 2026, 04:07:21 PM »
Buy the first kit as suggested by ST1100 as it contains the accelerator pump bellows that will likely be split on an old carb. Make sure you take plenty of photos if you take it apart together with notes of how it is assembled.
Be very careful when you take the carb apart as Keihin fitted a plastic collar on the main spindle during manufacture. This has a very thin flange that is turned over capturing the spindle, the flange is so thin it cracks during the turning over process. The only way to separate the parts is to very carefully turn the flange back up. Use a hot air gun to soften it otherwise it will crack further and split making it U/S. Do the same when you reassemble it.
Mine fell apart as it was so brittle and I had to drill and tap the plastic part and made a grub screw and washer arrangement to hold it all together.
12
« on: June 24, 2026, 07:24:11 PM »
A replacement NC30 tank is listed at over £1300+VAT+Shipping and there are none available anyway! Looking on auction sites any that are available are full of filler, dents or bad rust. At least I know my tank has no dents, no filler and now no rust🙂
13
« on: June 24, 2026, 11:17:25 AM »
Just under £1k but that was without the paint strip and primer.
Sounds very expensive but normally the exterior paint isn't affected. The paint on my tank has to be stripped to find a potential leak.
How much is a liner (I know it's a lot, lot cheaper) and all the prep time and still not knowing if all the rust has been removed prior to pouring the liner and even then not knowing if the liner has covered the interior fully. It is hasn't it will lift. Then there's the issues we now hear about of some chemical liners failing and flakes going into the fuel and blocking the carbs etc with the result endless strips and still being left with a failed liner.
Plating is (to my mind) the best one stop fix solution and it has the guarantee so if it does fail it will be done again foc.
14
« on: June 24, 2026, 09:30:42 AM »
Here's the process in photos undertaken by motorcycle dent removal.
I began with a really badly corroded and flaky tank.
Deox-C wouldn't touch it
Sent to MDR who used a cleaner to remove the worst of the rust in the first pass.
Treatment a second time and the paint had to be removed from the outside of the tank as they thought the seam had corroded and the only way to check properly was to strip the paint. The bare tank was given a coat of primer on the outside.
Tank then prepped for electroplating with I understand Nickel
Lifetime guarantee provided against corrosion.
It was expensive to do but at least it's fixed for good and it's guaranteed and I won't have blocked carbs that would be a pia to continually remove and strip to remove rust or flakes of disintegrated liner!
15
« on: June 23, 2026, 12:38:29 PM »
I received notification yesterday from Andy at Motorcycle Dent Removal that my tank has now been internally plated.
He is posting it back next Tuesday (should have been today but I'm away until Friday so unable to accept it at home).
He has sent photos.
If you can wait until next week when I am back home I will add the photos here of what I started with, a very flakey rusty tank even DEOX-C wouldn't touch, to Andy's first pass with the cleaner he uses, second pass and prep for plating and the plating itself.
Be warned though, it isn't cheap but it does have a lifetime guarantee and unlike a liner it won't flake off.
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