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Messages - alexdecker
1
« on: August 15, 2026, 08:10:31 PM »
Oh my god, Deltarider was right on the money! Rechecked everything and was slowly going insane. After reading his comment, I was like "surely that can't be it". Went down, one of the wires on the second point had slightly moved towards the plate and was making the tiniest of contact. Cleared it, started the bike, and it went ahead and puuuuuurred like a kitten (albeit a kitten who needed a vacuum sync), firing on all four again.
Shit, these old bikes. It can be anything, but sometimes it's just the tiniest stupidest of things.
We are back! I vacuum-synced it today. Will be back with an idle video tomorrow and ask for comparison with the old one. To my ears, it sounds beautiful now. Also it revs so cleanly.
- Alex
2
« on: August 15, 2026, 11:40:10 AM »
Okay, this story is slowly unfolding to a grim nightmare. Got the boots fixed on all 4 intakes and exhausts, but now 2 & 3 are not firing at all. Here is what I have done so far: - When I had the carburetor out, I cleaned it, before putting it in with new boots (just carb cleaner, but had the top lid off and the float bowls)
- I replaced the points with new original Honda points
- I then set cam chain, valves (kept them to the looser side of around 0,08 mm intake and 0.1 mm exhaust). I then set timing.
Measured the coils and they measure a 3.2 ohm resistance each. The points are getting power. The timing is dead on. I got spark on all the plugs. What on earth could cause 2 & 3 to just set out all of a sudden? - Alex
3
« on: August 10, 2026, 03:48:20 PM »
I've used the right boots for the intake. They are easy to differentiate, as they have the lips that go into the airbox. Unfortunately I can't measure them up against the old ones, as I chucked them when the new ones was installed in a pre-mature celebratory moment of relief of finally having done this task, as un- and reinstalling the carbs is such a pita! 🙁
6
« on: August 08, 2026, 02:16:48 PM »
Hey all
So before the idling video, I had just replaced all the carb boots. I just discovered today that the intake boot on cylinder 3 was not seated properly. This might also be why the idle has a little swing.
Now, I cannot for the life of me get this boot to sit properly. It won't go over the carb, no matter how much I try. Its like its a tiny bit too short. These new boots are always so stiff and hard to handle. Any advice on how to drag it properly over the carb? It sits fine in the airbox, and the other boots seem to sit fine as well.
- Alex
7
« on: August 05, 2026, 09:42:05 AM »
400 only Ted, 500/550 different shape. I only know of one supplier and he won't post to the UK.
Will he ship to Europe though? I’m located in Denmark 😊
8
« on: August 03, 2026, 11:10:55 AM »
Thanks all for the replies!
I just switched all the boots on both sides of the carb and this was the first time I ran it. I noticed small swings in the idle, but wanted to know how this was as a baseline. I will probably do a complete maintenance with cam chain, valve adjustment, timing and vacuum sync. Just figured I might not need it if it was only the boots I had changed.
An idle that goes up and down, is that also a vacuum sync, or is that something more severe like an air leak?
I actually hadn't thought about any strange knocking noises. The primary chain is new, but whenever it idles and I don't have the clutch lever pulled, it always rattle a little more. Just figured that was the nature of the beast. But with your comments here, I might have to look into the clutch plates or springs or anything else?
- Alex
10
« on: May 30, 2026, 02:42:48 PM »
The return spring on those carbs is very strong, too strong, some would say. Remove the spring and move the butterfly by hand, if smooth it’s the spring if not then it’s something like a bent needle for instance
How smooth is it supposed to be? With the spring off, I can move it up and down manually, and it doesn't seem like it is hitting any resistance, but it's not like it's feather lite either. Just with a normal amount of resistance I guess. With the spring on, I can still move it just with my fingers, which makes me think that I might actually have a weak spring? - Alex
11
« on: September 16, 2025, 10:37:41 AM »
Hey Ted!
Did a search but can't find that thread! Is it on here or somewhere else?
- Alex
12
« on: September 12, 2025, 08:08:21 AM »
Thanks for all the replies guys!
The carbs does have a "push" cable, and when I reverse throttle, the carb closes all the way. Also when I push the brass caps, the carb closes all the way. Also, I hope its not the shaft and bushings. This is a fairly new problem, and last season, the carbs closed fine (after I restored them), but this season all of a sudden they are hanging a bit.
I will test the spring as Oddjob is suggesting and go from there. Update will follow.
13
« on: September 11, 2025, 05:35:05 PM »
Did you re-synchronize the carbs with the idle adjustment screw turned in a lot? This will affect the carbs returning to the stop screw when the spring return doesn't have enough snap to go into the over ride.
I didn't, and it sits in a really nice spot. Wish it was that simple though - would make for less of a headache 
14
« on: September 11, 2025, 05:34:17 PM »
More likely the shaft is tight in the bushings
Can you put a few more words on it? Was looking at the parts lists on CMS, but not completely sure what parts you are talking about.
15
« on: September 11, 2025, 01:13:51 PM »
Hey all
I got a throttle that is not returning fully. I inspected cables, throttle pipe etc. all with no problems. When I disconnect the cables from the carb, the carb still doesn't return fully to the idle screw stop. This makes me think that the return spring is the problem. If I open the throttle fully, it will snap fully back. But if I only open it 1/3, it will not snap all the way back.
My question is: Is there anything else that could cause this? Is there some screw I can have tightened too much in the carb rebuild, that will hinder the spring in doing its work? Could something else bind, or maybe a third thing? Most people on the forums says that its very unlikely that the spring is faulty. Although it does seem like that would be the exact problem in this case, I just wanna make sure there is nothing else Im missing, before I go looking for a replacement.
- Alex
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