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Messages - Towsejames
1
« on: August 12, 2026, 01:40:59 PM »
What wattage h4 is best to use?
Also I like the idea of the led option but hate the colour of anything blue or white and want the traditional halogen output colour, is this possible?
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2
« on: August 12, 2026, 08:15:55 AM »
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3
« on: August 12, 2026, 08:06:50 AM »
So many minutes of cleaning and tightening connectors and things are looking much tidier. Nothing crazy found except a few questions marks. First one being the horn. My horn is fed with a pale green wire and another wire earthed to the frame of the bike. There is a black wire that runs with the pale green which was left off. The horn works as it is. The black wire has 12v when the ignition is on. Would anyone have any pics of how their horn is wired for reference. Also a green terminal connector is left floating behind my flasher relay - I’m not sure if this is spare or meant to be connected somewhere. (Everything seems to work fine). Finally look at how my pilot lamp is held in! And has been for the past I’d say 20 years or so. Can anyone let me know how this is meant to be. And also does this whole unit need replacing if the headlight bulb blows? Since I can’t see a way of removing a bulb. Finally at the headlight plug I’m only getting around 8v for dip and high beam is this correct or should this have 12v Thanks in advance.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
4
« on: August 11, 2026, 08:53:06 AM »
Another odd thing. Chain guard is plastic on a k but chrome on an f.
Can I suggest filling the bottom 3 slots in the fuse box with spare fuses, they’ll come in handy if one blows. Say a 15 a 7 and a 5? Or maybe 2 orange and a blue as fitted. Always a good idea to carry spare fuses somewhere.
Ah yes. That is my plan, I will carry 2 spare 15 and a spare 7 for the lights. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
5
« on: August 10, 2026, 11:18:57 PM »
Thank you for all the replies and knowledge. I’ve been busy at work but did get to have a look. I have since removed the original fuse box which was a mess of bad soldering and green wires. I have fitted a blade type fuse box now with space for spares and retained the original wiring which looked in good condition and crimped spade connectors to fit on the new fuse box. I then traced most of the main loom back which needed tidying up anyway. (So thought why not) no major shorts, bad connections or damage found as of yet. I’ve cleaned up all the plugs and bullet connectors which were all tarnished and green. The last bit to do is to look in the headlight and continue to tidy up the loom. I have refreshed the tape with a fabric one I had which looks much tidier. Yes the bike is a mix of k3 and f parts but it’s how it came and I quite like the look. I’ll update once I get back on it if anything major is found!  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
6
« on: August 10, 2026, 11:09:52 PM »
Something odd here. The first pic is confusing. The tank looks like a 550K3 but the side panel badges are off a 550K0-2 not a K3. Totally different. Plus IIRC the 550F has one upper mounting lug going vertical and yours are both horizontal The brake pedal is off a 550F, the 550K has a round tubular type. The clocks are blue faced, so either a 550F2 or a 550K3. The shape of the footrest brackets may clear it up as they are different IIRC between the 550K and the 550F. If the headlight was blowing the fuse why not the 7a fuse? try removing the headlight itself and run without it, see if it blows when the lights are on. If it doesn't suspect the lamp itself, if it does it's a wiring problem on the lighting circuit.
You’re completely right. The bike is a complete mix of 550k3 and 550f parts. The frame is and f but the tank and side panels are k3. I quite like that it’s all made up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
7
« on: August 10, 2026, 11:07:35 PM »
Look at the blown fuse and is it
1 melted in the middle with visible"blobs"
2detached at one end and "floating
It looks blown in half to me, but the replacement which blew right outside my house doesn’t look blown at all despite it definitely being blown. It even has continuity but when ignition is switched on drops volts - I’m guessing it’s slightly touching until load is going through it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
8
« on: August 10, 2026, 10:16:50 AM »
9
« on: August 10, 2026, 10:15:26 AM »
Hi,
I’ve finally got my 550 on the road and riding for the first time with me just in time to catch the last of summer - (since I think 1999). A lot of titivation changing and rebuilding carbs, fork seals, tubes tyres, electronic ignition, servicing and lots of cleaning up.
I am sussing out some teething issues since taking it on short journeys where I live to try and make it reliable. It has broken down on me a few times but nothing a little roadside fix and cleaning up and improving electronic connectors didn’t solve.
However my latest breakdown blew the 15a main fuse losing all electrics to the bike, luckily a spare was there which allowed me to get home - something to note is I rode the bike for about 5-10 mins with the headlights on for the first time when the fuse blew. With this in mind I rode home using only the pilot lamp which seemed to be fine, around 2 mins from my house I switched my headlight back on which lasted the 2 mins home blowing the main fuse again right outside my house. The headlight thing could be a coincidence but they do also seem abit dim even though the bike charges.
Has anyone had the main fuse blow?
My plan is to replace the fuse box for a newer blade type anyway checking for any bad connections along the way.
Thanks for any help
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10
« on: July 27, 2026, 10:26:16 PM »
I prefer to manually sync them by loosening off the idle screw so it’s not touching. Now set all the slides so they just start to lift, as small a gap as possible. Now adjust the idle screw until they just start to move, check they all look just the same. Fit and then adjust the idle screw when the engines running.
I like the sound of this method. Thank you I’ll pop the carbs off again and set them like this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
11
« on: July 26, 2026, 05:29:39 PM »
Hi again,
Just a quick one. So I’ve recently rebuilt a set of 069a carbs following the video that classic octane posted. All is well and the bike runs nice and smooth, I bench synced the carbs using a drill bit to level each slide to each other.
However I was wondering on the idle adjustment when this was being done. I adjusted this with the idle screw backed right off. Nothing was mentioned in the video about this but now when starting the bike it idles from cold after choke is turned off at around 1200 rpm but doesn’t go any lower once the idle screw is backed right off. As the slides have been set to the size of the drill bit I used with the idle screw backed out.
Was I supposed to keep a small amount of adjustment left on the idle screw to allow for adjustment in lowering the idle - is the bike meant to shut off with the idle screw backed out the full way, ie closing the slides.
Thanks for any advice.
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12
« on: July 10, 2026, 10:14:28 AM »
Bearing retainer and seal was removed for fitting new bearings. (It’s the only photo I had).
I’ve refitted now with the original flanged nuts and no lock washers but applied a small amount of loctite and torqued up.
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13
« on: July 10, 2026, 10:10:03 AM »
So I have x2 what I believe are 550k side panels and one still has the badge on. I’m after replacing the badge and fitting a new badges to my panels with 550F ones like in the pic
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14
« on: July 07, 2026, 01:01:09 PM »
Are the flanged nuts lock nuts? I just can’t see any locking mechanism on them
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15
« on: July 07, 2026, 12:01:40 PM »
I’m putting my front wheel back together after fitting new bearings but I think the brake disc bolts have been put on incorrectly.  I have fitted these nuts as they work with the lock washers (already fitted). However I have looked at pics online which looks like the original nuts don’t use lock washers. Before I had the original nuts which I plan to reuse. Am I correct in thinking no lock washers are meant to be used? The originally nuts have like a flat bottom which wouldn’t allow a lock washer to be bent over to lock. Can anyone help? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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