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Messages - exvalvesetdabbler
1
« on: February 16, 2026, 08:10:19 PM »
The dealer setup manual will show you the cable routes. It's in Ash's Dropbox.
The tacho cable just dangles, clutch and throttle go through the clip.
Regards
Dave
2
« on: February 16, 2026, 08:05:55 PM »
I think the forward facing horn was a requirement in some European countries. Netherlands being one.
The horn bracket goes on the right hand side, and on mine the cable tidy wire piece goes on the front mounting bolt.
The bracket for the rubber strap on the left, there should be a bit on the frame for the other end of the strap .
Don't bother until your done with plugs and tappets. It just gets in the way.
Regards
Dave.
3
« on: February 13, 2026, 04:54:26 PM »
Ash , the one I have is a ex lab Decon model like the beige one in your pics , a 200w version.The QC sticker inside is dated 1990. The problem that I found was with a triac bolted to the earthed chassis. Someone didn't deburr the hole properly and the burr had penetrated the insulator to give an intermittent short. Luckily I had some more insulator pads to fix it after deburring the mounting hole. There's no real chance of getting at the heating element without de bonding the tank from the enclosure. It was electrically leaky sufficiently to fail a PAT test and that's why it was on its way to a skip before I rescued it.
It's amazing the amount of stuff that gets tossed in a skip when a lab closes or no longer needed. My boss would routinely lecture me on hoarding stuff that might come in handy one day, Apparently it costs money to store stuff you no longer need.
Regards
Dave
4
« on: February 12, 2026, 06:53:54 PM »
I have been distracted the last couple of days trying to get my ultrasonic bath working after 15 years sitting in the loft. It's an old industrial one dating from the 90s that decided to start popping fuses coupled with a leaky heating element which is why it was thrown out at work many years ago. Heater perminateley disconnected and the fault on the transducer board now fixed. It frequency sweeps so I didn't want to give up on it because I would never afford a new one having these specs. After 20 minutes running the water is up to 40 Deg without the heater any way. Lots of bits to degrease now including the carb bodies before they go off for wet blasting. No doubt there will be a few watch straps and jewellery joining the queue.
In between fixing this and other jobs I had a look at the pivot pins that locate the floats, none were particularly great so I set about making some new ones. 2 mm diameter brass rod, 23mm in length and chamfered at both ends.
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The two at the top are old ones.
Regards
Dave
5
« on: February 05, 2026, 11:27:45 AM »
The only one I have heard of is the kettle owners club. There is a forum but you need to be a member.
Regards
Dave
6
« on: February 03, 2026, 12:30:20 AM »
A milling machine would be my first choice if I had somewhere to put it, but yes you're right if someone with CNC capability took it in they could churn them out like sausages.
I had a lot of similar items made at work in titanium and despite the high material cost, the tooling/setup costs always dominated for small batches of around 30.
Regards
Dave
7
« on: February 02, 2026, 10:50:46 PM »
Measure 5x cut once!.
8
« on: February 02, 2026, 05:13:47 PM »
Been making replacement interconnectors to replace the old plastic ones that some folk have been reporting breakages for. I also compared the measurements with the T connector which is brass. On the old plastic ones, the groove width was narrower as was it's inner diameter. Not really sure if the old plastic has shrunk with age or just naff machining tolerances. I made the new ones to match the grooves in the T connector.
A bit of faffing around grinding a groove tool for machining brass to reduce the rake angle to near zero, a sharp contrast to what I have been using for stainless. The tool tip was honed on an oil stone to remove grinding marks that would otherwise show up on the finish of the groove.
Nearly finished after deburring
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Finished item
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Don't think I could make a living doing these, the first one has taken most of the day in between the crisp, biscuits and coffee breaks, on the plus side there were no rejects.
Number two tomorrow.
Regards
Dave
10
« on: January 29, 2026, 06:41:25 PM »
Doesn't explain the change from Choke to open stamped on the lever.
The image on cmsl is a good restorers reference, so long as it doesn't disappear if they sell them. Certainly explains the black coated star washer in my bits box that I couldn't figure out where it came from.
I have seen the ones you mention on a well known auction site , they don't look that great.
I'm trying to work around smutt when plating before I go and order in some fresh chemicals. Seems to affect spring washers as well as springs. Just dug out my ancient ultrasonic from the loft to see it that will shift it otherwise it will be anodic cleaning in alkaline media.
Regards
Dave
11
« on: January 29, 2026, 12:06:19 PM »
I have been searching around to find images of original carbs to determine the finish on plated items.
For the choke lever
Pictures of push mileage F2 on Ash's drop box
Yellow zinc with CHOKE stamped on the lever
NOS carb set on cmsl. - same as above
All of my old sares same as above
Carb link set on cmsl. Has OPEN stamped with the arrow pointing in the opposite direction with the lever and the associated bits on BZP.
NOS link set purchased around 2008 from DSS
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I would be interested in any observations or insights as to why Honda would bother making the change or if it was model specific.
Can't help noticing these things and curiosity gets the better of me.
Regards
Dave
12
« on: January 25, 2026, 04:19:23 PM »
Thanks Bryan,
The only connectors I have available have all shrunk and one is starting to split. I do have viton tubing that might fit, by as you say it's not rigid and that helps.
Last time I did a set I glued the pin for the return spring into one of the carbs with silicone to stop it running away during reassembly..
Regards
Dave
13
« on: January 25, 2026, 01:12:03 PM »
A standard BS012 will fit if you have some.
Regards dave
14
« on: January 25, 2026, 11:33:44 AM »
Still busy cleaning up carb bits and come across the fuel t that sits between carb 2 and 3. It seems to be made of brass but I'm suspicious that it may have been zinc plated over as well.
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Looking at the barb where the fuel line goes and the spigot at the bottom of the picture there appears to be residual plate there. This was after a 5 minute soak in citric acid and a quick polish. Most of it was black at the start. I can't find a part number for it , hoping to find a pic of a new one online to see what it might be.
Also what material is the short connector piece that goes between the breather ports between 1,2 and 3,4. What I have is rock hard but doesn't look like it was ever rubber,,maybe polythene or other hard plastic
Advice appreciated.
Thanks
Dave
15
« on: January 23, 2026, 07:22:43 PM »
I had a, little win today, been figuring out how to cut the felt seals while keeping the od and id concentric. Cutting the two holes separately was not reliable.
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The solution was to make the two cutters fit inside each other. The outer cutter does the outside diameter and retains the circle of felt. The inner cutter is chamfered internally to cut the inner hole to the size needed.
These are cut by squeezing the cutter against hard plastic in the bench vice so no bruised knuckles which is a bonus.
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This is the felt that I found.
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Just need to do the same for the carbs link rod and the throttle slide arm felts.
Bit of a faff making up tooling but should be able to turn them out like sausages. I was tempted to size the cutters to the same length so that a felt washer comes out in one hit, maybe later
Regards
Dave
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