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Messages - Eldrick
1
« on: November 25, 2025, 05:23:55 PM »
When I had a sometimes hot sometimes cold exhaust pipe it was a sticking (bent) inlet valve. Only found that out when I cleaned the pistons and that specific valve was tougher to remove.
2
« on: November 25, 2025, 11:12:06 AM »
Lovely bike with nice newly rebuilt wheels  , well done for having the skill to lace up and true wheels, I need to give it a go myself as the guy who used to do mine has very sadly passed.
My first 400/4 was a red one👍. If you can try and run the throttle and choke cable between the inside of the tank and frame, there should be a chrome metal clip for them to run behind otherwise you may risk rubbing that lovely red paint off with the cable as you turn the handlebar.
I didn't even notice those cables running wild there, thanks
3
« on: November 24, 2025, 09:15:30 PM »
Forgot to add a nice photo of my 'new boots' all laced up by me too.
4
« on: November 18, 2025, 03:13:17 PM »
Should I stick to the 400f Tire Pressure as stated on the bike or add more pressure to the tire (manufacturer recommendation) based on maybe they know the shape the tire wants to be?
5
« on: November 09, 2025, 04:06:39 PM »
So Now I have both wheels true and as I was expecting a 2 day sit in job I am surprised it only took me 4 hrs. So, for the benefit of the internet search engines... I managed to true both spoke wheels for my 1975 Handa 400f usin the following guide. https://bikebrewers.com/true-motorcycle-wheel/This allowed me to get the wheel vertical alignment very quickly by tightening or loosening the wheel nipples opposite each other on high spots. I also managed to fix the horizontal alignment by concentratiing on tightening the left set of spokes and loosening the right set of spokes or vice-versa to bring the wheel into true. After all that I just played a tune on the spokes to get them all to sound good. Now I just need new tubes and tyres
6
« on: November 08, 2025, 04:44:09 PM »
Well, both wheels have spokes however it turns out counting to four is way harder than you think!
7
« on: November 08, 2025, 08:07:42 AM »
In addition to the excellent advice Bryan gave me when I started building my own wheels I found this Allen Millyard video really useful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pW2LpGkmPJc
Yes, that will just about confirm that my front wheel had the spokes in the wrong holes, maybe that was part of the reason I could not unscrew the spokes. Off now to 'Miss one and skip three'
8
« on: November 07, 2025, 03:25:47 PM »
I think my front wheel was laced up just one 'hole' out of rotation.
When I follow the image I took before I removed the spokes the nipples do not bed into the wheel rim like I would expect. How can I tell if my theory is correct?
9
« on: November 06, 2025, 06:10:30 PM »
When I lace up my new wheels with the new spokes should I...
Put all the spokes into the hub first and then put the ends through the rim and add the spoke nipple to each one as I go round the rim?orPut all the spokes on one side of the hub (inside and outside spokes) and continue as above?
or
Put a single spoke on the inside-right or left side of the hub and thread it through the rim one at a time then do the outside ones?
or
Some other clever/easy method to add all the new spokes to the new rims?
thanks
Kenny m
10
« on: October 26, 2025, 09:33:07 PM »
Yeah! Welcome in. Cornwall Bikers. My 400f is not alone
11
« on: October 25, 2025, 01:18:54 PM »
Looks like quite deep rusting around the spoke nipple holes. Not saying these are toast but if it was me I would buy a couple of new rims.
I was thinking that too and its not like they are very expensive either, said with my better safe than sorry head on...
This is still available ..modern DID front .. almost half Silvers price.
I will take you up on that offer Ash, thanks.https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,32190.0.html
12
« on: October 24, 2025, 12:01:21 PM »
Looks like quite deep rusting around the spoke nipple holes. Not saying these are toast but if it was me I would buy a couple of new rims.
I was thinking that too and its not like they are very expensive either, said with my better safe than sorry head on...
13
« on: October 24, 2025, 11:47:08 AM »
Should I replace the rims?
They look like this...
14
« on: October 15, 2025, 06:25:05 PM »
I am going to buy new spokes for my '75 400f and Apart from DS I see Central Wheel Components (CWC) also sell spokes and list three different 'finishes' for want of a better word.
Galvanised steel was the traditional material for spokes, although stainless steel is now more popular and gives a better longer lasting finish.
Polished stainless steel gives spokes a chrome-like appearance, but without the same level of maintenance.
Single butted spokes are only produced in stainless steel and can only be supplied polished.
Q. Would I be right to think that the Single Butted ones are 'better' insofar as they will stay bright, be longer lasting as well as being overall less cleaning or just easier to keep them looking good?
What I actually want is for the bike to look mostly original and I am not sure which spoke set would accomplish that aim.
There is also two types of nipples listed, with the suggestion that the Single Butted spokes would require the Brass-nickel plated nipples. No real question there just want to be 'kept right' before I buy.
Q. Spokes are listed by size, 16", 17", 18", 19" and 20" How do I measure my current rims to ensure I get the correct spokes?
I can only presume that the rims on the bike are original.
Also, any advice on 'rim tape' would be helpfull too.
Thanks
K
15
« on: October 05, 2025, 06:30:03 PM »
Welcome, and maybe see you around West Cornwall too.
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