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Topics - Laverda Dave

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1
Misc / Open / Rubber coating on cable clips etc
« on: January 26, 2026, 12:59:48 PM »
A few of the cable clips on the NC30 have some sort of plastic/rubber covering on them. This is going to get removed during blasting and powder coating.  Previously I have used heat shrink to replace the coating but on some of the brackets I don’t have this option and the bracket is large and split in two. Does anyone know of a suitable product that can be applied and give the same protection, I’m thinking of a liquid rubber type product that will air dry but am unable to find anything.

2
Misc / Open / Powder coating cast wheels
« on: January 14, 2026, 11:29:17 AM »
A quick question for anyone who has experience of re-powder coating cast wheels......
My NC30’s wheels are looking a bit rough with chips on the rims as a result of tire changes etc. Being white the PO has attempted to colour the chips in with normal white paint that has now gone puke yellow.
I would like to get the wheels blasted and powder coated (in white). The existing bearings are ok but I guess no matter how well I mask the bearings they will get trashed with the blasting. So, should I leave the old bearings in until the wheels are repainted and then replace them potentially damaging the new powder coat or should I remove them before blasting, get the wheels coated and then drift the new bearings in?

3
Other Bikes / The NC30 Thread
« on: December 13, 2025, 05:43:29 PM »
Welcome to my VFR400 NC30 thread.

I was gifted this bike by an old work friend last year when she emigrated to Aus. Now the Honda TL125S has departed it is the NC’s turn on the workbench.

This is going to be an occasional thread as I know it’s not a sohc :o and shouldn’t really be here but as its winter and we all get bored and look for projects to follow I thought I’d start this thread.

So, what am I going to do with this NC? Well, I don’t fancy doing a full restoration as it will become a money pit so the idea is to undertake a sympathetic restoration and get it back on the road for the summer.

First thing to do was to strip the fairing off to see what I have got. There are signs of gravel rash to both fairing lowers and although the paint and fairing is original there is a fair bit of pink going on and it looks like a 90’s shell suit so I am thinking of a respray in the original UK NC30 colour scheme (think mini RC30). The bike is filthy below the fairing and all the alloy is corroded as are the fork bottoms and the upper and lower yokes. The frame looks good with no obvious dents, twists or gravel rash. The wheels look ok from 50ft but are full of chips to the rims.

I’m going to attempt to start the engine but will first check the bores with my bore scope and I’ll whip the cam covers off and add some oil to the cams etc. I’ve had to buy a new battery, I think the reg/rec had cooked the old one, it looked like a waffle.

I don’t know how true the mileage is at 18,000 as the speedo is mainly in MPH with KPH as a secondary scale. Considering this is a 1992 model, I’m thinking the speedo was maybe changed when it arrived in the UK? If there are any experts out there on these bikes please let me know.

I am thinking of draining the coolant and replacing it with a litre of central heating cleaner, running the engine up and leaving it for a couple of days to clean the water jackets etc before draining it out and maybe repeating the process. I know these engines fur up if the coolant isn’t replaced with the correct type. Is what I am proposing wise or will it end in disaster, has anyone ever tried it? I know RRC on YouTube restored a NC and he used this method but it was on a stripped motor, my idea is to use it as a cleaning/flushing agent on a complete motor?

I’ll update the thread when I get it started.

4
Project Board / TL125S Finished!
« on: November 23, 2025, 06:35:31 PM »
I finally completed the TL125S today :).

The bike when it came to me had 'a minor electrical problem' but like all field bikes it was virtually worn out, no wiring loom, most electrical parts missing, siezed engine, frame brackets cut off and rusty.

It has taken just on a year to restore and thanks go to Bryan for the restoration and all his patient help with the wiring, Ash for the parts he obtained from Yahoo in Japan, Piki for the fantastic decals and Rozabikes Tim for sending the photos of the missing brackets, eBay leads on parts and encouragement when I really wanted to throw the towel in!

Now this is the interesting part, as it isn't my bike and I've restored it for an old mate I had to keep a careful note on the spend, £5735 and he already had the bike (well, some of it!). The cost is so expensive because thats how much services such as painting, powder coat, chrome etc cost now. I have spent 497 hours on it and this includes going to the painter, chromer etc. My time is free but how can any bike (or car) restoration company make any money!

so now onto the next project, a NC30, I'm not sure if I should start a thread on here as there are FOUR cams involved :o

5
Misc / Open / Unable to post
« on: November 23, 2025, 06:33:26 PM »
Is anyone else unable to post with attachments or is it just me?
I keep getting an error code 500 internal server error?

6
Project Board / Switch wiring
« on: September 28, 2025, 06:09:03 PM »
I am currently racking my brain with the 'unique' TL125s wiring.
There were no handlebar switches with the bike and the loom was unknown, it certainly isn't a TL for sure.
I have got quite far with the rewire but I now have two problems I cannot solve.
First one is the handlebar switches. TL parts are unobtainable so I have used a XL125 for the L/H side and a CL125 for the R/H side. Both switches mimic the originals but that's it. The issue is really with the R/H replacement switch which is basically an ON/Off lighting switch only (main/dip/indicator & horn is in the L/H switch. The R/H switch has four wires coming from it, yellow/white, blue/white (these appear to be connected with a moveable contact inside the switch. These also appear to contact in the OFF position. The other two colours are brown/white & Black. These are also linked with a moveable contact and operate in the ON position.
The problem is the Honda TL wiring diagram shows the correct TL R/H switch has 8 cables coming from it even though it serves the same function as the CL replacement switch I have fitted. The real problem I have is the Yellow/white and Yellow cables from the flywheel alternator are shown to feed into the TL R/H switch as two of the eight cables. The CL switch only has the Yellow/white cable so I therefore don't know how to wire the remaining Yellow cable from the alternator into the CK switch! Does anyone have any ideas of how I can wire the 'spare' yellow cable because it's obviously needed to supply power to the lights somehow?
The second issue concerns the Silicone diode rectifier. The TL wiring diagram shows it to be wired into the battery after the main fuse (but other diagrams show it to be wired in parallel with the battery so that's confusing as well!) on one leg (the positive side of the diode) with the negative leg going again to the R/H handlebar switch (and the CL switch doesn't have this cable either! Looking at the wiring diagram the yellow cable from the alternator appears to connect with the diode cable when the headlight is switched on.
Electrics really aren't my forte, any ideas welcome!

7
Misc / Open / Wiring connectors, what size are Honda?
« on: August 30, 2025, 11:10:22 PM »
I'm trying to determine exactly what size of wiring connectors are used on the 1976 TL125s I am currently restoring.
Something I thought would be easy to determine is turning out to be a brain teaser!
So far I've come across 2.2, 2.8 and 3.6mm connectors on the internet used for Honda bikes. I thought I should be using 3.6mm and life would be a box of chocolates but the Kojat (not sure if I've spelt that correctly) state 2.8mm are used on older Honda's although it doesn't define what is an old Honda? I consider myself to be 'old' but I'm young compared to some people I know!
How do I measure an existing connector to determine the actual size because they are different diameters at the tip and the crimp?
In addition, I would like to use thinner gauge cable to make new parts of the existing loom but I've read as the system is 6v I should use 1.0mm gauge (same as existing) due to the higher resistance in a 6v circuit?
As you can probably guess electrickary when it comes to automotive applications is not my strongest asset!
Any help/guidance would be helpful in order to avoid the finished bike becoming a mobile bonfire!

8
Desperately Seeking!! / Headlight earth nut
« on: August 25, 2025, 08:43:19 PM »
Evening All.
The TL is the bike that continues to frustrate with a list of endless missing parts just when I think I'm getting there.
Today I went to begin the task of what wiring is actually there (very little) and what I have now resigned myself to having to make (a lot).
I have laid what is left of the unknown loom over the bike to at least give me a starting point.
One of the first items missing is of course the two headlight mounting bolts located inside the plastic headlight shell. These have a flying earth lead attached to them. They are not hexagonal nuts but are square to fit inside the shell and lock into position as the headlight mounting nut is done up.
The nut is 8mm thread and I'm pretty sure it is a generic nut shared with the CB fours (and others) such as the 400/4.
The part number in the TL125S book is 61303-074-000.
Does anyone have one please, two would be great but I won't be greedy!
Cash waiting as they say in all the best ads🙂.
Dave

9
Misc / Open / One for Ted
« on: August 25, 2025, 11:05:21 AM »
Posted this advert from CBG especially for Ted as I know he loves an old German Scooter 👍

10
Recommended Sources for Parts and Services / Upcoming auction
« on: August 22, 2025, 06:52:56 PM »
Just thought I'd post this here in case anyone is on the lookout for parts.
J H Pugh in Ledbury are having an auction of the late Paul Barker collection. There are six pages of lots with a huge stock of Japanese bike parts with a lot being 400/4. Problem is it looks like you may have to bid for quite a big lot of parts to get the bit you actually need!
Looking at what is for sale and the state of it I guess he was a breaker at some point?
Here's the link to the site:
Dispersal Sale of the Late Paul Harker Collection to include Tractors, Trailers, Farm Machinery, Workshop Tools and Building Materials. Motorcycles, Spares and Projects. - 357 Lots
Ring 1 – 10am – motorcycles, motorcycle spares and projects.
Wed 27th Aug 2025 from 10am

11
Misc / Open / Replacement VIN plate
« on: August 14, 2025, 06:03:12 PM »
Hi All.
Does anyone have any contact details for Solent VIN Plates? They only have a Facebook page which is of absolutely no use if you are not on FB like me!
They don't appear to have a website, email address or phone number either!
Has anyone here used them (I know Nurse Julie has) and do they stamp the VIN plate if provided with the numbers. Honda used a unique size of font to stamp them originally (probably to stop fraud and cloning etc).
The TL VIN is missing just like everything else on this bike!

12
SOHC Singles & Twins / TL125s Paint codes
« on: July 03, 2025, 05:27:34 PM »
I'm about to strip the paint off the TL125s tank ready for a respray. The tank has been repainted before, badly with very thick paint. The existing pattern is incorrect as well, the orange should extend down to the nose of the seat, it doesn't.
My question is does anyone know of the correct paint codes that should be used on the tank and side panels?
The main tank colour is silver (as are the side panels) with an orange(ish) panel that sweeps down to the nose of the seat. Separating the two colours is a black pinstripe (it's currently in gloss black but should it be matt black? If anyone knows of the Honda paint codes I'd appreciate some guidance. Being of 1976 vintage I wonder if Honda actually had paint codes then, they didn't for the Parakeet yellow used on the 1976 400/4 I restored last year!
Diego (Piki or Reddice on here (site sponsor)) has made up the new decals.

13
Announcements / Kempton Park Autojumble
« on: May 09, 2025, 08:52:05 AM »
Anyone going to the Kempton Park Autojumble and Classic Bike show tomorrow? Tickets are £9 in advance (you get an e-ticket on your phone and you just sail past the long queue to get in).
I'll be there on my RE Interceptor looking for more elusive TL125s parts and buying stainless nuts, bolts & washers💷💰.

14
Desperately Seeking!! / Does anyone have a TL125S Speedo Case
« on: April 24, 2025, 12:11:36 PM »
I am looking for a chrome speedo case for the TL125S I am currently restoring if anyone has one they would like to sell?

Peter Horton has skillfully restored the speedo and it know works as it should instead of the needle going round and round the face!

Unfortunately Peter is unable to restore the outer bezel and case that have been badly mangled in a fall. The nasty dent in the case is in exactly the place you really don’t want it, in the area where there is a plate inside to locate the idiot lights making it impossible to get to in order to knock the dent out.
If anyone has a case and bezel lying around (or even a complete speedo ;)) you may wish to sell please let me know, you’ll make a TL very happy ;D

15
Tricks & Tips / The power of bread!
« on: January 17, 2025, 09:33:13 PM »
Thought I’d share a trick I learnt to do with bread and its power to act as a bearing removal tool where all else has failed!

I had to remove the blind gear shaft bearing from the TL125S to enable the cases to be vapour blasted. Nothing would shift the bearing and then I remembered the slice of bread trick. Basically you stuff bread into the blind bearing and tamp it down with the head of a suitable sized bolt. Keep stuffing bread into the bearing recess and eventually it will push the bearing out AND you have a handy snack when the job is done :)

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