Honda-SOHC

Still busy cleaning up carb bits and come across the fuel t that sits between carb 2 and 3.  It seems to be made of brass but I'm suspicious that it may have been zinc plated over as well.

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Looking at the barb  where the fuel line goes and the spigot at the bottom of the picture there appears to be residual plate there.  This was after a 5 minute soak in citric acid and a quick polish.  Most of it was black at the start. I can't find a part number for it , hoping to find a pic of a new one online to see what it might be.


Also what material is the short connector piece that goes between the breather ports between 1,2    and 3,4.  What I have is rock hard but doesn't look like it was ever rubber,,maybe polythene or other hard plastic

Advice appreciated.

Thanks
Dave

I'm still working my way through my junk box and picked up the frame that the 4 carbs attach to. I have everything else to build another set of carbs.  It's seized solid so kind of expecting to make up some new bronze or brass bushes anyway.

I parked this many years ago due to the metal rod that actuated the slides being quite sad scabby and because I didn't have the  machining capability machine the two keyways to produce a new one.

What do other people do, I can live with a few scabs where they are hidden under the tank but it's the two ends that have the inverted cone that is difficult to clean up not knowing what material it is. 
 

It's not zinc plate but could be nickel or chrome plated that has been ground to size.


Any ideas or suggestions.

Regards Dave

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 I have uncovered a NOS cylinder head that I had stowed in the loft 30 years ago.  Originally bought it  because mine had a few iffy threads for the rocker cover bolts.

What I'm not sure on is the valve seats. Valve guides are present.  Looking at the parts list it does show valve guides as being  included in the part number and available separately.  If it is a factory fresh head would the valve guides have been reamed to size an the seats ground concentric with the guide.

Taking a used ex valve it goes in quite easily, just the lightest of a push and gravity does the rest.

The reason for it being cheap at the time is the exhaust port stud holes are untapped.  M5 drill bit drops in M5.5 is a tight fit and only goes in a few mm.  So probably right for tapping.

Regards
Dave

What was the original finish on the 400F breather cover, painted same as rocket cover or bare metal like the sump.

Regards
Dave

Starting to work through a laundry list of minor maintenance tasks,one of them being oil weeping from one or more tappet covers. O rings are probably original as I have not changed them in the 45 odd years I've had the bike.

Does anyone know the correct size, parts book only mentions 30.8 .

Nearest I can find is 31 ID x 3 cross section.

Looking at some of the ridiculous prices some folk are charging for genuine ones, it might be cheaper all round to order new covers from China that come with o ring.


Regards
Dave

I was ordering a few bits from AliExpress last week and came across some pan head screws in stainless that are made to GB823 standard.  Not one that I am familiar with, so just to make the order big enough to avoid postage cost, I ordered a few in M5 and M4.

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They have a smaller head compared to the DIN standard screws but the head is slightly thinner.  Probably risky under high preload settings but perfectly adequate for holding carbs and other non stressed bits together.  Finish is reasonable too so not much buffing needed to shine them up a bit.  Head diameter is the same as jis in the M5 size.

Regards
Dave

I have been thinking about adding a volt meter for a while now and have sorted out the wiring and done a temporary lash up just to see how useful it will be.

There is lots of stuff out there, either too big or don't match the styling of the other instruments or just plain tacky. The off the shelf volt meter I tried had an orange display and is not easy to see in bright sunlight. Based on previous experience blue should be better.

Here was the temporary setup.
https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,32075.msg311762.html#msg311762

I have had a play around with a 0.28 inch led volt meter which was the smallest I could find, and been trying out different contrast filters and housing.  Currently  prototyping with black plastic before moving on to aluminium. The objective here is to find the smallest aperture that doesn't obscure the display.  This one is 23mm.


Bare module
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Prototype housing
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The contrast filter is a disc cut from some 3mm grey tinted perspex. I do have some blue tint to try as well.

This will be a slow burning project as and when time permits.

Regards
Dave