Honda-SOHC

Should I stick to the 400f Tire Pressure as stated on the bike or add more pressure to the tire (manufacturer recommendation) based on maybe they know the shape the tire wants to be?

I am going to buy new spokes for my '75 400f and Apart from DS I see Central Wheel Components (CWC) also sell spokes and list three different 'finishes' for want of a better word.

Galvanised steel was the traditional material for spokes, although stainless steel is now more popular and gives a better longer lasting finish.
Polished stainless steel gives spokes a chrome-like appearance, but without the same level of maintenance.
Single butted spokes are only produced in stainless steel and can only be supplied polished.


Q. Would I be right to think that the Single Butted ones are 'better' insofar as they will stay bright, be longer lasting as well as being overall less cleaning or just easier to keep them looking good?

What I actually want is for the bike to look mostly original and I am not sure which spoke set would accomplish that aim.
There is also two types of nipples listed, with the suggestion that the Single Butted spokes would require the Brass-nickel plated nipples. No real question there just want to be 'kept right' before I buy.



Q. Spokes are listed by size, 16", 17", 18", 19" and 20" How do I measure my current rims to ensure I get the correct spokes?

I can only presume that the rims on the bike are original.


Also, any advice on 'rim tape' would be helpfull too.
Thanks
K

Thanks to all that helped me directly with answers and parts and indirectly with historical posts.
I have (for the first time ever) took an engine apart, down to the base gasket, and cleaned stuff I didn't know was in there, then put it all back together again and I still have a bike that works. Totally impressed with myself and equally thankful for the help and information available in the forum. I may even have enough knowledge to answer question in future.
I would go out on a test run but it is a bit on the pouring with rain side so I will go tomorrow.

ThanksKenny m

I have twelve washers in the cylinder head, I belive they are copper. Two of the twelve have a (rubber) gasket built into them. When I put the engine together again should I replace all twelve washers as they look like compression seals?

 Just cleaning the valves and seats on the bike, removing them one at a time. I noticed one of them needed tapped with a hammer to get it out. (#1 cylinder). After the springs were removed the valve is tight in the socket so I removed #2 valve and that runs free in #1. The #1 is tight in #2 so I am guessing I need at least one new valve.
Am I correct with my reasoning?
 When the bike was running last week there was nothing wrong with the firing on #1 however, I don’t want to ‘force’ the valve back in if it is a sign that the valve may not function when the bike is running. I did run some 400grit sandpaper over the stem to clean that up, it did not make any difference to the tightnes of the fit.

I belive my cam chain tensioner slippe is broke. This image is of the bottom/lower end of the slipper should I be replacing the slipper?

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If it is broke, is that bottom end meant to hook over a pin or does it just drop down and rest on 'something'?

Also, if broken, is it likely that the broken part comes out during oil changes?

The bike has been running I am just doing a gasket change due to a recent oil leak and can't say I hear any odd sounds making me think some metal is in the engine.

When I replace the alternator later this week is it best to have a rotor removal tool?
I also need to replace, at least, the rocker cover gasket and maybe the cylinder head gasket, not sure yet where the main leak is. From which supplier will I get the best quality gasket set please?

Just checking that I am right to think I should replace this 400f front brake piston.