This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Sesman
1
« on: May 13, 2026, 10:25:47 PM »
As good as anything. I use guitar string.
2
« on: May 13, 2026, 04:50:53 PM »
I used Allendales solution 4:1 mix at 60 deg for 15 minutes, but this didn’t touch the partially blocked pilot jets. I eventually heated the pilot jets in a gas flame and cleared the internal ash with a piano wire that slid easily through the jet.
The real problem I faced were blocked pathways in the carb bodies.Multiple attempts in the ultrasonic just didn’t do the job. In the end I used multiple cans of STP carb cleaner forced through the fuel routes directed by blocking each of the routes in turn.
3
« on: May 13, 2026, 04:35:09 PM »
I would have no qualms about hoking out a blocked jet with proprietary probes. Just don’t be aggressive and use a sensibility sized probe. The jets are made of brass, not cheese. Stubbornly blocked pilot jets can cleared by heating via a gas flame and probing with a wire to clear the ash. I know cos I’ve done it successfully.
For example, clearing a #40 jet with a #38 probe is highly unlikely to change the jet diameter by a demonstrable amount - think cross sectional area and percentage change. It’s highly unlikely the CSA change through cleaning could approach a CSA enlargement that would be equivalent to a change in jet size!
4
« on: May 03, 2026, 08:02:24 AM »
As long as you are using the correct shouldered mounting bolt and rubber mountings the earth will be just fine through the frame. I too have used those aftermarket market indicators using the single wire/bolt ground with no problems.
5
« on: April 26, 2026, 08:18:49 AM »
Definitely an F type filter. Normally the filter plate and sponge filter rots away at the base of the filter casing. You’re in luck if yours are ok. I have the filter sponges if you need one and I may even have a decent plate too. The drain tubes are unobtainable, though you may have one.
6
« on: April 22, 2026, 09:32:01 AM »
REet, smart. Nice work.👍.
7
« on: April 10, 2026, 08:13:10 PM »
Hey, Ken. “ If and when….”. There are folks on this site who will assist…you only need ask.
8
« on: April 07, 2026, 10:28:19 AM »
Oh, and to get optimal results an oven bake is essential in my humble opinion.
9
« on: April 07, 2026, 10:26:32 AM »
Do a search on this site: “Simoniz”. The recommendation by Nurse Julie is the right one.
10
« on: March 28, 2026, 07:36:03 PM »
I tend to agree, Ken. The welding around the brace is about as bad as I’ve seen….cosmetically that is. It certainly doesn’t look original and the heavy paint coating can’t hide it. I’ll take some detailed photos of mine tomorrow with the horn off for comparison.
11
« on: March 28, 2026, 06:25:45 PM »
That picture I supplied is from a 1977 F2. I’m not totally convinced that the frame section you have photographed is original, but I’m definitely not an expert.
12
« on: March 28, 2026, 05:29:21 PM »
BTW. The horn is only loosely mounted as I’m refurbishing….before anybody comments.
13
« on: March 28, 2026, 05:20:22 PM »
Like dis…..
14
« on: March 17, 2026, 07:22:30 PM »
I had lots of trouble with the taper bearing, eventually reverting to the original ball race solution. Regarding the bottom yoke, be cautious. They are made of cheese and can be easily bent (misaligned). It is possible to realign them, but it’s also very easy to over-stress them doing so. In fact some on this forum may not recommend re truing, but I’d say it really depends on the amount of misalignment…I managed it successfully. If the original bottom yoke is in good condition and has good alignment, try welding and grinding a new stop as a first resort.
15
« on: March 12, 2026, 08:44:46 PM »
Buy cheap buy twice…..which might work🤔
|
Show Posts
