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Messages - exvalvesetdabbler
1
« on: July 09, 2026, 08:58:43 PM »
Tried this, too weak. Another hole for the spring a bit higher up maybe.
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Regards
Dave
2
« on: July 05, 2026, 11:08:51 PM »
For day trippers like me and family there wasn't really anything to do and the catering was almost none existent. There was an organised ride out but since I had just arrived and a bit
numb in places , I gave that a miss.
If I go again I'll take a picnic.!
Regards
Dave
3
« on: July 05, 2026, 12:47:18 PM »
More from the VJMC annual rally
Another on my wish list
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Another F2, a bit rough round the edges but looked pretty original and unmolested
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Regards
Dave
4
« on: July 05, 2026, 12:37:14 PM »
I managed to get along to their annual rally at Kettering yesterday, a few bits of me went a bit numb before I arrived. Did my duty and put my bike in the line up. There were some other nice bikes there and after chatting to their owners they didn't want to be stuck there until about 1600 so left their bike in the car park.
Overall a pretty disappointing turn out. There were a handful of 400 Fours and they were all ridden there and a couple of Motor Martin framed bikes
One that's has been on my wish list was a quite tidy RD350
'Restorer Pete' was there with a CB200 engine in a BSA Bantam rolling chassis together with a loud exhaust system.
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Mine is the candy red F2 second from the front in this picture
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Regards
Dave
5
« on: July 04, 2026, 05:31:50 PM »
As you will have found out as you slide it in place the shaft moves into the hub. I had one of those tools that is like a screwdriver except it's a pointed tapered end. I was able to push the tapered point into clamp bolt hole and this pulls the shaft out of the hub as the taper meets the bolt recess part of the shaft.
That's what I have managed to do, I removed the wear indicator to re plate it and I wasn't going to faf around removing the wheel and hub just to get a finger on the other end of it. A small Phillips screwdriver or length of welding rod will do. If it's been missing the dust seal it probably wouldn't hurt to remove the shaft , clean and re grease while you are at it. Regards Dave
6
« on: July 02, 2026, 03:06:23 PM »
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You might have to remove the swing arm to release the shaft
Regards
Dave
7
« on: June 25, 2026, 11:07:35 AM »
The only thing that came close is a barrel spring used on Weber carburettors and might need to re bend on one end to get the length right.
The other option I have been looking at for a set of 400/4 carbs that I'm rebuilding is to make up a small extender for the spring to reduce the tension. First with a piece of stiff wire to evaluate the required extension and then make something a bit neater out of sheet metal with two holes of suitable diameter, one for the carb end and a smaller hole to hook the spring onto. This is my preferred option because the next person that comes along can simply remove it if they don't like it.
Could also play around with various sized washers.
Regards
Dave
8
« on: June 23, 2026, 02:50:18 PM »
If you on a mechanical advanced/retard are the bob weights free to move or get a strobe light on the timing and watch the advance as revs increase from idle.
Second thing if you can get your finger up the carb inlets and feel that the slides are fully open when the throttle hits the stop.
Regards
Dave
9
« on: June 21, 2026, 02:12:57 PM »
I ran into that issue 20 years ago. If I remember right the bush has dimples on the inside to retain a bit of oil. At the time I approached a couple of engineering firms to have the gear re bushed. Their best option was to cut a fine groove on the inside to aid ingress of lubrication. I wasn't sold on the idea so managed to find a new one at a reasonable price.
Be interested to see what any engineers on here might have to say.
Regards
Dave
10
« on: June 21, 2026, 01:10:54 PM »
I have used Keyster for the jets and float valves but used genuine for the emulsion tubes and needles. The taper on the needle is the critical bit and Keyster offer a few different variants in their tune up kits. All been ok since they were done in 2010.
For the floats, make sure that they are straight by placing them on a flat surface and make sure there's no rocking. Have seen these out of shape when folk have been heavy handed freeing off gummed up pivots.
If the original brass ware will clean up then I'll use that as a first option. Just going through that process building up a spare set of carbs.
In this day and age if a Japanese company can't drill the right size of hole in a piece of brass, then the world is doomed anyway.
NRP carbs used to keep stock of Keyster bits but have seen a few reports of them being difficult to deal with of late.
Regards
Dave
11
« on: June 20, 2026, 11:22:37 PM »
Probably fine rust particles from somewhere. Did you reuse old fuel line which could have had a coating inside that's come loose. The fuel stabiliser prevents oxidation of the fuel and is also supposed to prevent it going corrosive once it's absorbed moisture. Oxidation of ethanol eventually makes vinegar(acetic acid).
You can usually tell if the fuel has gone corrosive when the brass ware looks like dull copper where the zinc has been strippe away from the surface. Dezincification of brass is well documented.
Regards
Dave
12
« on: June 18, 2026, 02:34:43 PM »
Is anyone from here going to the VJMC meet at Kettering in July.
I'm not too far away so might have a day trip on the Saturday.
Regards
Dave
13
« on: June 18, 2026, 10:15:44 AM »
I have some miller oils ethanol protection fuel stabiliser and carry a small 8ml bottle in my jacket pocket and empty that in the tank when filling up. Never used E10, the cost difference to E5 isn't worth worrying about given the small amount I used.
Regards
Dave
14
« on: June 17, 2026, 09:01:59 PM »
Good job you hadn't tossed it in the bin and the bin men had already been down your streer
15
« on: June 17, 2026, 08:16:05 PM »
Leave it in. I do put about 3 spots of engine oil per 300 ml.. just drain it out in spring, connect up to the fuel tap, turn it on and it's fires up 3rd kick.
Regards
Dave
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